Case Prep
Back Panel
The 3D printed replacement back panel will be used to plug in the power supplies for the Raspberry Pi and the monitor.
Unscrew the retention nuts from both USB C panel mount adapters.
Insert the adapters into the 3D printed back panel and push it into the case as shown.
Open the case in screw the back panel in place with the same screws that were used for the original part.
Flip the nuts around so they are "backwards" with the flange facing out (otherwise they won't fit the small space). Screw them on by hand to keep them from moving.
Hinge Stops
The 3D printed hinge stops allow the lid to open to a comfortable angle and then stop. They also act as feet for resting the case on it's bottom surface when carrying through a luxury hotel lobby and then needing to set it down when approached by the mysterious gentleman in the Burberry trench coat.
Gather up the four hinge stops and eight of the M2.9 x 9.5mm sheet screws.
Hold one of the two larger stops next to the hinge as shown and mark the holes with a long pencil or marker.
Use an awl or punch to mark starter guides.
Drill two pilot holes, then screw the hinge stop into place.
Repeat these steps for the second large hinge stop.
Small Stops
Open the lid so it rests against the two large stops.
Place the smaller stops on the other side of each hinge, mark them, drill, and screw them into place.
Joystick Shaft Holder
The removable joystick shaft needs to be secured to the case when it's closed. The small 3D printed nub will connect to one of the handle brackets using an M4 threaded insert and a repurposed screw from the bracket itself.
Nub Prep
Use your soldering iron on a low temperature to press the threaded insert into place as shown.
Screw Switch-eroo
Unscrew the nut from the outer handle screw, then unscrew the screw.
Re-insert the screw from the inside of the case and screw it to it protrudes.
Shaft Storage
This will make it stylish and simple to store the joystick shaft when not in use. Simply pull up the spring-loaded collar, set the shaft on the nub, and release.
Joystick
The joystick will be mounted to the underside of the faceplate using screws and threaded inserts.
The joystick itself needs to be modified with a removable shaft first so that it'll fit with the lid closed.
Inserts
Gather the faceplate and four M4 brass threaded heat-set inserts. Heat up your soldering iron to a low temperature and press them into place.
Shaft Swap
Remove the retention e-clip from the joystick's stock shaft. An e-clip removal tool works best, but you can also accomplish this with a pair of needle-nose pliers, a flat head screwdriver, and lots of cursing.
Slide out the stock shaft, two bushings, and the spring.
Press the hemispherical plastic rotation bushing onto the short shaft.
Place the new shaft into the joystick, replace the bushings and spring.
Then, press the retention e-clip into place to secure it. Again, you can use the insert side of the e-clip tool or some pliers and a lot of good fortune to press it into place without it flying across your workshop or room.
Joystick Attachment
Use four M4x6mm screws to fasten the joystick to the top plate as shown.
Make sure the connector pins are oriented as shown here.
Screw the joystick ball top onto the removable shaft, and set the dust cover over the opening. Connect the shaft to the joystick by pulling up the spring-loaded release collar, fitting it onto the nub, and then releasing the collar.
Page last edited August 12, 2026
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