A bunch of loose buttons and more flopping around is no fun, so it's time to put this whole shebang inside the case! Flip the lid upside down -- this is where the majority of the work will be done before adding the case side and bottom.
Optional Button Customization
The clear button housings are great for NeoPixel lighting, however if you want to add a bit of extra style to your build, you can swap the button caps from another button. You'll still get lighting effect, especially on the bezel.
Insert 30mm Buttons
Press the eight arcade buttons into the lid as shown. Make sure the button retention clips can clear the small NeoPixel guide posts.
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Attach 16mm Buttons
Insert the five 16mm buttons and use the washers and nuts to secure them. You can use a 3/4" socket to tighten the nuts down (or improvise with slip joint pliers, fingers, etc.).
Reset Button Mounting
Mount the 16mm reset button to the outside of the case as shown here. Note: skip the washer and just use the nut alone to secure this button.
Threaded Inserts
Use your soldering iron (and an optional insert setter tip) at around 395ºC to insert the six M4 threaded inserts into the the top side of the case walls.
Repeat for the bottom side.
Breakout Mount
Mount the PCB breakout to the lid using four sets of M3 x 10mm screws, washers, and nuts. You can use standoffs or just double up on the washers and nuts to lift the board up a bit as shown here.
NeoPixel Strip
Cut a 16 LED section of the NeoPixel strip and remove the silicone weatherproofing sheath.
Plug the strip into the JST extender you previously wired to the breakout, or cut off the JST connector and strip some insulation from the tips and screw the wires directly into the terminal blocks if you prefer. This can help save some wiring space.
Wrap the strip around the arcade buttons with two LEDs per button as shown here.
Ground Wires
You can do direct runs from the breakout to each button (either leg on the button can be ground). Or, you can get a bit fancy and create a daisy chain using a single wire and multiple 0.11" crimp connectors and a crimping tool.
Joystick Time
Mount the joystick as shown using four M4 x 10mm screws, washers and nuts. (It can help to set the lid on the printed case walls since the lid can no longer lay flat).
Plug in the joystick wiring harness. If the wires aren't already connected to the breakout from the testing step, re-connect them now:
- Black to
GND - Green to
UP - Yellow to
DN - Orange to
LF - Red to
RT
Button Wiring
Here are two diagrams that may help with button wiring -- the first is a top view of the fightstick with the primary and secondary buttons labeled. The second image is the same arrangement but flipped as seen from the inside view while wiring.
Using those views and the breakout labels as your guide, wire up the remaining buttons as shown. Run your wires neatly and keep them to the sides of the supports so they won't interfere when closing the case later.
Tidy Up the Wires
You can tidy up and secure your wires a bit more by wrapping discreet bundles with zip ties, thread, or thin wire as shown here.
Secure Lid to Case Walls
Place the lid on top of the case walls, making sure the lid is lined up with the inset lip.
Use six M4 x 10mm screws to secure the lid to the walls, screwing them into the threaded standoffs.
USB Cable
Run the USB C end of your cable through the opening in the case wall. Plug it into the KB2040.
Use a zip tie to lash the cable to a support for strain relief.
Close It Up
Being sure to keep all wires clear, line up the base with the case walls and press it closed -- you should feel the support snap into place.
Screw the base into place with six M4 x 10mm screws.
Page last edited March 04, 2026
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