The basic connections are shown below. The button switch and LED are completely separate. So there are two connections for the switch and two connections for the LED.
- The switch is non-latching, normally open.
- The LED includes a current limiting resistor allowing up to 12V power.
These style connectors have been around forever and go by various names: "spade connector", "flat blade connector", etc. Soldering to them is totally fine. There are also pre-crimped mating connector wires available (see cables below).
For some reason, the switch and LED connectors are two different sizes.
LED Polarity
The polarity of the two connections for the LED can vary. There are no LED polarity markings. It will depend on how the LED assembly itself is inserted into the button assembly, which can go either way. The easiest way to deal with this is to try powering one way. If the LED does not light up, then reverse the connections.
It's also possible to look down into the LED assembly and note the flat side cut on the LED itself. That will indicate the cathode (-) side.
If you want to actually verify the polarity, the LED assembly can be removed and inspected directly. See the Disassembly section of this guide for further information.
Quick Connect Cables
Ready made quick connect cables are available in various sizes. The non-button end is terminated in a 2 pin JST XH connector. The JST XH mates directly with the Adafruit LED Arcade Button 1x4 STEMMA QT Breakout. If the JST XH connector is not needed, it can be cut off.
The size of the connectors for the switch and LED can unfortunately be different. Therefore multiple sizes may be needed. Check the product page for details.
Page last edited May 27, 2025
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