These are instructions for version 1.1 of the kit!
If you are confused because your kit doesn't have a 74HAC125 in it, you probably want to read the v1.0 instructions.Make it
The holder should 'snap' perfectly into place thanks to two bumps on the bottom.
Heat up the metal tab and the pad (the silver square beneath it) for 3 seconds with a hot soldering iron, then poke just a bit of solder in.
Do this for all three corners. Once this is done you should not be able to lift the card holder
Check that you have no solder bridges - the pins should not be soldered to the metal body of the holder or to each other.
Form them into staples (as shown left with a 100 ohm resistor), then place them so they sit flat against the PCB, in the correct locations. Resistors don't have polarity so they can go in 'either way' and work fine!
Once placed, bend the leads out so the resistors don't fall out.
The way to tell the difference is look for the 103 printed on it. If it says 104 then it's a 0.1uF. Make sure it says 103! This capacitor forms the output low-pass filter for the audio so its important to have the right value.
Lately I have been shipping kits with axial (long-ways) package, not radial (side-ways) package. These are longer (see left) and are easy to bend over for soldering. This way there is less confusion. Either way, try to spot the 103 marking.
Ceramic capacitors are non-polarized and can go in 'either way.'
Ceramic capacitors are non-polarized and can go in 'either way.'
Note carefully where C5 goes, it doesnt go below C1 but rather next to the 1.5K resistor
The chip has a notch in one end and that notch must line up with the notch in the silkscreen. In this photo, thats on the left.
This chip may be labeled TS922 or TLV2462
This is a similar-looking chip to the DAC. Again, check that the notch matches the silkscreen notch. In this photo, thats to the left.
Solder it in, just like you did with the DAC.
The button will snap in, its symmetric so it goes in 'either way'. The header is also symmetric, make sure the long end sticks up.
Electrolytic capacitors are polarized so make sure they go in the right way! The long lead is the positive lead, make sure that goes into the hole marked with a + as shown here.
If you have an NG Arduino, you can place a 3-pin female header (not included) as shown, which will let you use the reset button.
2 -> LCS
3 -> CLK
4 -> DI
5 -> LAT
10 -> CCS
You can use any sort of wire. Solder the jumper wires in place.