Each frame is held in place with three M3 x ~12-14mm screws. Slots are provided for a 3/4" (20mm) elastic strap. This can be worn around a hat or the forehead of a mask. Not worn over your own eyes please…it blocks your vision and might scratch your eyes!
A last-minute change added foam tape to secure the screens. The additional thickness meant that the “12mm-ish” screws won’t always make a solid connection. Here’s what to do…
- Remove the plastic screen protector if you haven’t already. Make sure the screen and back of the lens are clean. Align the lens holder over this.
- Insert a screw, then apply firm and even pressure on the lens against the screen. With pressure distributed across the whole screen like this (using the lens), it won’t break.
- It should be possible to push through just enough threads for the nut to catch.
- Repeat with other screws. Once they’re all caught, move between the three screws giving each 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time. The foam turns out to be quite compressible and it should be possible to get the tips of the screws flush with the face of the nuts.
You can skip the lenses and just use the frames for the strap if that’s all you need. Regardless, don’t make the strap too snug…the board is designed to be split in two, and we don’t want that happening unintentionally.
There is an optional extra nose bridge piece. If you have split your MONSTER M4SK apart and want to use it in its original shape again, this piece holds the frames at their original spacing. An optional 9-pin JST cable must link the two boards, you’ll need some different length M3 screws, and you will not get the boopable nose feature back.