What's smaller than a Feather but larger than a Trinket? It's an Adafruit ItsyBitsy ESP32, a powerful processor PCB with a plethora of pins! It features the ESP32 Pico module, an FCC-certified module that contains an ESP32 chip with dual-core 240MHz Tensilica processor, WiFi, and Bluetooth classic + BLE, configured with 8 MB of Flash memory, and 2 MB of PSRAM.

We've added some handy accessories like a USB to serial converter chip, power regulator, USB Micro B, buttons, NeoPixel, and STEMMA QT I2C connector to outfit this superhero chip for any task you want to throw it at. This is also an ultra low power ESP32 board with a deep sleep current consumption of 10uA!

At the core of the Itsy is the ESP32 (PICO ECO V3) chip, which is a single 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi and Bluetooth combo chip designed with TSMC’s 40 nm low-power technology. The ESP32 PICO, in particular, integrates all peripheral components seamlessly, including a crystal oscillator, flash, PSRAM, filter capacitors, and RF matching links in one single package. This makes it perfect for stuffing into a small space as the ItsyBitsy.

Please note, like other ESP32 modules, the ItsyBitsy ESP32 does not have native USB support - instead, there's a USB to serial converter chip. This means it cannot act like a USB keyboard or mouse, but it does have Bluetooth BLE and BT classic, so you can use it wirelessly.

Here are some of the updates you can look forward to when using ItsyBitsy ESP32:

• Same size and form-factor as other ItsyBitsy mainboards - with a similar, but not identical, pinout (there are no pins at the end of the board like most other Itsy's due to the radio antenna being there).
• USB Micro B - To maintain compatibility with the rest of the ItsyBitsy's.
• ESP32 V2 03 Dual Core 240MHz Xtensa processor - the ESP32 you know and love, with the latest engineering fixes. Massive user base and thousands of existing projects and libraries to use.
• WiFi, Bluetooth LE, and BT Classic for any IoT project usage
• 8 MB Flash & 2 MB PSRAM
• USB to Serial converter built-in with high-speed UART for debugging and uploading, auto-reset circuit works perfectly with any ESP32 uploading tool.
• Can be used with Arduino IDE, CircuitPython or MicroPython.
• Built-in RGB NeoPixel LED with power control to reduce quiescent power in deep sleep.
• Built-in Red LED on pin D13.
• 5V level-shifted output on D5, perfect for driving NeoPixels or other devices that want a 5V logic signal.
• Battery input pads on the underside with diode protection for external battery packs up to 6V input
• 20 General Purpose "IO" pins:
  • 20 Pads expose pins from the ESP32:
    3 are analog input only (A3, A4, A5)
    1 is digital output only (5) with 5V level shifted up.
  • 13 x 12-bit analog inputs (A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, D12, D13, D14, SDA, SCL, D32, D33).
  • Dual 8-bit analog output DACs on A0/A1
  • PWM outputs on any pin.
  • I2C port with STEMMA QT plug-n-play connector - a second I2C port can be defined on any other pins.
  • Hardware UART in addition to the USB-serial UART.
  • Hardware SPI on the high speed SPI. peripheral pins - a second SPI port can be defined on any other pins.
  • Hardware I2S on any pins.
  • 8 x Capacitive Touch with no additional components required.
• 3.3V regulator with 600mA peak output.
• Light sleep at 4mA, deep sleep at ~10uA.
• Reset switch for starting your project code over, for entering bootloader mode or for user reading.
• User switch on pin 35.
• Really small

Each order comes with one assembled and tested ItsyBitsy ESP32 with headers that can be soldered in for use with a breadboard.

The Adafruit ItsyBitsy ESP32 is jam-packed with pins, connectors and buttons. This page covers all the features!

PrettyPins PDF on GitHub.

Power Pins

The ItsyBitsy ESP32 has a Micro B USB connector on the left in the image above. This connector is used to power and program the board. Use a Micro B USB cable to plug the ItsyBitsy into your computer.

Along with the Micro B USB connector, the ItsyBitsy has eight power-related pins.

Along the top edge:

• BAT - battery input for an alternative power source to USB, the voltage can only be from 3.5V to 6VDC
• G - This is ground for power and data. There is a second ground pin available at the end of the bottom edge.
• USB - This is the same pin as the Micro B USB connector's 5V USB power pin. This should be used as an output to get 5V power from the USB port. 

You can always put any voltage from 3.5V to 6VDC into BAT and the circuitry will switch between BAT and USB dynamically for you. That means you can have a Battery backup that only gets enabled when USB is disconnected.

If you want to add rechargeable power, a LiPoly backpack can be soldered into these three pins that will let you have a battery that is automatically recharged whenever USB is plugged in, then switches to LiPoly when on the go:

Along the bottom edge:

• Rst - This is the reset pin. Tie to ground to manually reset the board.
• 3.3V - This pin is the regulated output from the onboard regulator. You can draw 500mA whether powered by USB or battery.
• EN - This pin is connected to the regulator enable. It will let you shut off power - when running on battery only. But at least you don't have to cut a trace or wire to your battery. This pin does not affect power when using USB.
• VHi - This is a special pin! It is a dual-Schottky diode connected output from BAT and USB. This means this will always have the higher-of-the-two voltages, but will always have power output. The voltage will be about 5VDC when powered by USB, but can range from 3.5-6VDC when powered from battery. It's not regulated, but it is high-current, great for driving servos and NeoPixels.
• GND - This is ground for power and data. 

ESP32 Module

The processor on the ItsyBitsy ESP32 is an ESP32 V2 03 Dual Core 240MHz Xtensa. It's the ESP32 you know and love, with the latest engineering fixes. It has a massive user base and thousands of existing projects and libraries to use. WiFi, Bluetooth LE, and BT Classic for any IoT project usage with 8 MB Flash and 2 MB PSRAM.

Logic Pins

The ItsyBitsy ESP32 has 20 general purpose "IO" pins. You can have a PWM output on any pin, as well as hardware I2S on any pin.

Bottom Row

• A0/GPIO25 - This is DAC1 (8-bit analog output). It uses ADC2.
• A1/GPIO26 - This is also DAC2 (8-bit analog output). It uses ADC2.
• A2/GPIO4 - It uses ADC2. One of the capacitive touch pins.
• A3/GPIO38 - It is input/ADC only. It uses ADC1.
• A4/GPIO37 - It is input/ADC only. It uses ADC1.
• A5/GPIO36 - It is input/ADC only. It uses ADC2.
• SCK/GPIO19 - This is the SPI clock pin.
• MOSI/GPIO21 - This is the SPI Microcontroller Out / Serial In (MOSI) pin.
• MISO/GPIO22 - This is the SPI Microcontroller In / Serial Out (MISO) pin.

Top Row

• D13/GPIO13 - It uses ADC2. This pin is shared with the built-in LED. One of the capacitive touch pins.
• D12/GPIO12 - It uses ADC2. One of the capacitive touch pins.
• D14/GPIO14 - It uses ADC2. One of the capacitive touch pins.
• D33/GPIO33 - It uses ADC1. One of the capacitive touch pins.
• D32/GPIO32 - It uses ADC1. One of the capacitive touch pins.
• D7/GPIO7 - Digital input/output only.
• D5/GPIO5 - Digital output only. This is a special pin that is level-shifted up to Vhi voltage, so it's perfect for driving NeoPixels that want a ~5V logic level input.
• SCL/GPIO27 - This is the I2C clock pin. One of the capacitive touch pins.
• SDA/GPIO15 - This is the I2C data pin. One of the capacitive touch pins.
• RX/GPIO8 - This is the UART RX (receive) pin. Connect to the TX pin found on a breakout or device. This is separate than the 'debug UART' which is connected to the USB-to-Serial converter, so it will not interfere during upload. In Arduino, use Serial1. In CircuitPython, use board.RX.
• TX/GPIO20 - This is the UART TX (transmit) pin. Connect to the RX pin found on a breakout or device. This is separate than the 'debug UART' which is connected to the USB-to-Serial converter, so it will not interfere during upload. In Arduino, use Serial1. In CircuitPython, use board.TX.

Note you cannot read analog inputs on ADC2 once WiFi has started, as it is shared with the WiFi hardware.

STEMMA QT Connector

There is a 4-pin STEMMA QT connector in the center of the board. The I2C has pullups to 3.3V power.

The I2C pins are connected to GPIO15 (SDA) and GPIO27 (SCL). In Arduino, you can use the STEMMA connector with Wire. In CircuitPython, you can use the STEMMA connector with board.SCL and board.SDA, board.I2C() or board.STEMMA_I2C().

NeoPixel LED

In the center of the board, to the left of the ESP32 module, is the NeoPixel. This addressable RGB LED works both as a status LED (in CircuitPython and the bootloader), and can be controlled with code. It is connected to GPIO0 and is available in CircuitPython as board.NEOPIXEL and in Arduino as PIN_NEOPIXEL.

There is a NeoPixel power pin on GPIO2 that is necessary for the NeoPixel to work. This is so it can be fully de-powered for low power usage. It is available in CircuitPython as board.NEOPIXEL_POWER and in Arduino as NEOPIXEL_POWER.

Buttons

There are two buttons on the ItsyBitsy ESP32:

• User Switch - This is a user readable button switch to use as an input, labeled U on the silk. You can read it on pin GPIO 35. Note this is an input-only pin. There is a pull-up on board. It is available in CircuitPython as board.BUTTON, and in Arduino as BUTTON.
• Reset - The reset button, labeled Rst on the silk, is used to reboot the board.

Red LED

The onboard red LED is located directly below the BAT pin on the front of the board. It is connected to GPIO13 and can be controlled in code like any LED, set high to turn on. It is available in CircuitPython as board.LED, and Arduino as LED_BUILTIN.

CH9102 USB-to-Serial Converter

The CH9102F USB to serial converter communicates between the ESP32 and your computer over USB. It can handle 50bps to 4Mbps max rate for debugging and uploading, with auto-reset circuit that works perfectly with any ESP32 uploading tool. Sometimes these chips require drivers to be installed on your computer's operating system. We have a Learn Guide detailing how to install the driver for the CH9102F.

w.FL Antenna Port

This microcontroller board can be used for low power usage thanks to the ESP32's multiple sleep modes.

There are three basic operating states to Espressif chips: normal, light sleep and deep sleep.

Normal power usage is as you expect: you can use the chip and run code as you like - connecting to WiFi, reading sensors, etc.

Light sleep is sort of a 'hibernation' - power usage is minimal and WiFi is disconnected, but the internal clock and memory is kept. That means you can wake up where you left off, in the middle of the code as desired. You'll still need to re-initialize any external hardware that got disconnected, and WiFi, but it's often faster than waking from a deep sleep

Deep sleep is the lowest power but the tradeoff is that all memory and state is lost - the only thing that's running is the real time clock that can wake the chip up. When woken up, the chip starts as if it was physically reset - from the beginning of the code. This can be beneficial if you want to have a fresh start each time

A rough guideline is:

• Normal power: 100mA+ can be as much power as need and spike during WiFi connection
• Light sleep: 2mA assuming all external hardware is de-powered
• Deep sleep: 100uA assuming all external hardware is de-powered

The Adafruit ItsyBitsy ESP32 has a NEOPIXEL_POWER pin that controls power to the NeoPixel LED. This pin is automatically pulled HIGH in both CircuitPython and Arduino. Disabling this pin by setting it to an output and LOW allows you to drop the power draw.

Here's a generic sketch we use for all our boards that has a macro-defined section for enabling and disabling all external powered elements. For example, if there's a power pin for NeoPixels, I2C port, TFT, etc...we turn that off before going into light or deep sleep! This will minimize power usage

// SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2022 Limor Fried for Adafruit Industries
//
// SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT

#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

// While we wait for Feather ESP32 V2 to get added to the Espressif BSP,
// we have to select PICO D4 and UNCOMMENT this line!
//#define ADAFRUIT_FEATHER_ESP32_V2

// then these pins will be defined for us 
#if defined(ADAFRUIT_FEATHER_ESP32_V2) or defined(ARDUINO_ADAFRUIT_ITSYBITSY_ESP32)
#define PIN_NEOPIXEL 0
#define NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER 2
#endif


#if defined(PIN_NEOPIXEL)
  Adafruit_NeoPixel pixel(1, PIN_NEOPIXEL, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
#endif

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // Turn on any internal power switches for TFT, NeoPixels, I2C, etc!
  enableInternalPower();
}

void loop() {
  LEDon();
  delay(1000);
  
  disableInternalPower();
  LEDoff();
  esp_sleep_enable_timer_wakeup(1000000); // 1 sec
  esp_light_sleep_start();
  // we'll wake from light sleep here

  // wake up 1 second later and then go into deep sleep
  esp_sleep_enable_timer_wakeup(1000000); // 1 sec
  esp_deep_sleep_start(); 
  // we never reach here
}

void LEDon() {
#if defined(PIN_NEOPIXEL)
  pixel.begin(); // INITIALIZE NeoPixel
  pixel.setBrightness(20); // not so bright
  pixel.setPixelColor(0, 0xFFFFFF);
  pixel.show();
#endif
}

void LEDoff() {
#if defined(PIN_NEOPIXEL)
  pixel.setPixelColor(0, 0x0);
  pixel.show();
#endif
}

void enableInternalPower() {
#if defined(NEOPIXEL_POWER)
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_POWER, HIGH);
#endif

#if defined(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER)
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER, HIGH);
#endif

#if defined(ARDUINO_ADAFRUIT_FEATHER_ESP32S2)
  // turn on the I2C power by setting pin to opposite of 'rest state'
  pinMode(PIN_I2C_POWER, INPUT);
  delay(1);
  bool polarity = digitalRead(PIN_I2C_POWER);
  pinMode(PIN_I2C_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(PIN_I2C_POWER, !polarity);
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_POWER, HIGH);
#endif
}

void disableInternalPower() {
#if defined(NEOPIXEL_POWER)
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_POWER, LOW);
#endif

#if defined(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER)
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER, LOW);
#endif

#if defined(ARDUINO_ADAFRUIT_FEATHER_ESP32S2)
  // turn on the I2C power by setting pin to rest state (off)
  pinMode(PIN_I2C_POWER, INPUT);
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_POWER, LOW);
#endif
}

// SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2022 Limor Fried for Adafruit Industries
//
// SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT

#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

// While we wait for Feather ESP32 V2 to get added to the Espressif BSP,
// we have to select PICO D4 and UNCOMMENT this line!
//#define ADAFRUIT_FEATHER_ESP32_V2

// then these pins will be defined for us 
#if defined(ADAFRUIT_FEATHER_ESP32_V2) or defined(ARDUINO_ADAFRUIT_ITSYBITSY_ESP32)
#define PIN_NEOPIXEL 0
#define NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER 2
#endif


#if defined(PIN_NEOPIXEL)
  Adafruit_NeoPixel pixel(1, PIN_NEOPIXEL, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
#endif

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // Turn on any internal power switches for TFT, NeoPixels, I2C, etc!
  enableInternalPower();
}

void loop() {
  LEDon();
  delay(1000);
  
  disableInternalPower();
  LEDoff();
  esp_sleep_enable_timer_wakeup(1000000); // 1 sec
  esp_light_sleep_start();
  // we'll wake from light sleep here

  // wake up 1 second later and then go into deep sleep
  esp_sleep_enable_timer_wakeup(1000000); // 1 sec
  esp_deep_sleep_start(); 
  // we never reach here
}

void LEDon() {
#if defined(PIN_NEOPIXEL)
  pixel.begin(); // INITIALIZE NeoPixel
  pixel.setBrightness(20); // not so bright
  pixel.setPixelColor(0, 0xFFFFFF);
  pixel.show();
#endif
}

void LEDoff() {
#if defined(PIN_NEOPIXEL)
  pixel.setPixelColor(0, 0x0);
  pixel.show();
#endif
}

void enableInternalPower() {
#if defined(NEOPIXEL_POWER)
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_POWER, HIGH);
#endif

#if defined(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER)
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER, HIGH);
#endif

#if defined(ARDUINO_ADAFRUIT_FEATHER_ESP32S2)
  // turn on the I2C power by setting pin to opposite of 'rest state'
  pinMode(PIN_I2C_POWER, INPUT);
  delay(1);
  bool polarity = digitalRead(PIN_I2C_POWER);
  pinMode(PIN_I2C_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(PIN_I2C_POWER, !polarity);
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_POWER, HIGH);
#endif
}

void disableInternalPower() {
#if defined(NEOPIXEL_POWER)
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_POWER, LOW);
#endif

#if defined(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER)
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_I2C_POWER, LOW);
#endif

#if defined(ARDUINO_ADAFRUIT_FEATHER_ESP32S2)
  // turn on the I2C power by setting pin to rest state (off)
  pinMode(PIN_I2C_POWER, INPUT);
  pinMode(NEOPIXEL_POWER, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(NEOPIXEL_POWER, LOW);
#endif
}

The best way to really test power draw is with a specialty power meter such as the Nordic PPK 2

When running the above code and monitoring with a PPK, you'll get a graph like this:

The big pulse is normal mode, you can see the ESP32 booting up, loading code, and then pausing 1 second. Then there's a big drop for one sec to light sleep, and finally one more 1 second pause at deep sleep.

Power Draw for ItsyBitsy ESP32

The following graphs show the power draw for the ItsyBitsy ESP32 in normal power mode, light sleep mode, and deep sleep mode.

Normal Power Mode

The power draw, running normally (without WiFi), is 41.9mA.

Light Sleep Mode

The power draw in light sleep mode is 1.97mA.

Deep Sleep Mode

The power draw in deep sleep mode is 10.55uA.

CircuitPython is a derivative of MicroPython designed to simplify experimentation and education on low-cost microcontrollers. It makes it easier than ever to get prototyping by requiring no upfront desktop software downloads. ESP32 CircuitPython firmware is uploaded to the board via the USB serial port.

Follow this step-by-step to get CircuitPython running on your board.

Driver Install

If this is your first time using an ESP32 board on Windows or MacOS, you may need to install the USB to serial drivers. There are two options for the USB to serial chipset on your board. If you are unsure which one you have, install both drivers.

For instructions and more information regarding the CH9102F chip and driver install, please visit the How To Install Drivers for WCH USB to Serial Chips guide.

For driver downloads for the CP2104 and CP2012N, please visit the Silicon Labs Downloads page.

For those running Linux, the drivers are already included.

CircuitPython Download

Connecting to the Web Flasher

To begin, plug your board into your computer via USB, using a known-good data-sync cable, directly, or via an adapter if needed.

You will have to use the Chrome or a Chromium-based browser to install CircuitPython. For example, Edge and Opera are Chromium based.

Safari and Firefox, etc are not supported - they have not implemented Web Serial!

In the Chrome browser visit https://adafruit.github.io/Adafruit_WebSerial_ESPTool/

You should remove all other USB devices so only the target board is attached. This eliminates confusion over multiple ports!

Erasing the Board Contents

If you would like to erase the entire flash area so that you can start with a clean slate, you can use the erase feature. We recommend doing this every time before installing or updating CircuitPython.

Programming the Board

As the ESP32 does not have native USB, no USB drive will show up on your computer when you reset. With CircuitPython firmware loaded, the REPL can be accessed over a serial/COM port.

For more details on installation, how to configure your ESP32, and info on getting started with CircuitPython on your ESP32 using the Web Workflow, check out the CircuitPython on ESP32 Quick Start guide.

Here's a simple example showing how to scan for any I2C devices that are connected to the ItsyBitsy ESP32 using Web Workflow. You'll connect an MCP9808 I2C sensor to the ItsyBitsy ESP32 for testing.

Wiring

Download the Project Bundle

In the example below, click the Download Project Bundle button to download the necessary Python file in a zip file. Then, extract the contents of the zip file. For this example, no additional libraries are needed.

# SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2017 Limor Fried for Adafruit Industries
#
# SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT

# pylint: disable=broad-except, eval-used, unused-import

"""CircuitPython I2C Device Address Scan"""
import time
import board
import busio

# List of potential I2C busses
ALL_I2C = ("board.I2C()", "board.STEMMA_I2C()", "busio.I2C(board.GP1, board.GP0)")

# Determine which busses are valid
found_i2c = []
for name in ALL_I2C:
    try:
        print("Checking {}...".format(name), end="")
        bus = eval(name)
        bus.unlock()
        found_i2c.append((name, bus))
        print("ADDED.")
    except Exception as e:
        print("SKIPPED:", e)

# Scan valid busses
if len(found_i2c):
    print("-" * 40)
    print("I2C SCAN")
    print("-" * 40)
    while True:
        for bus_info in found_i2c:
            name = bus_info[0]
            bus = bus_info[1]

            while not bus.try_lock():
                pass

            print(
                name,
                "addresses found:",
                [hex(device_address) for device_address in bus.scan()],
            )

            bus.unlock()

        time.sleep(2)
else:
    print("No valid I2C bus found.")

# SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2017 Limor Fried for Adafruit Industries
#
# SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT

# pylint: disable=broad-except, eval-used, unused-import

"""CircuitPython I2C Device Address Scan"""
import time
import board
import busio

# List of potential I2C busses
ALL_I2C = ("board.I2C()", "board.STEMMA_I2C()", "busio.I2C(board.GP1, board.GP0)")

# Determine which busses are valid
found_i2c = []
for name in ALL_I2C:
    try:
        print("Checking {}...".format(name), end="")
        bus = eval(name)
        bus.unlock()
        found_i2c.append((name, bus))
        print("ADDED.")
    except Exception as e:
        print("SKIPPED:", e)

# Scan valid busses
if len(found_i2c):
    print("-" * 40)
    print("I2C SCAN")
    print("-" * 40)
    while True:
        for bus_info in found_i2c:
            name = bus_info[0]
            bus = bus_info[1]

            while not bus.try_lock():
                pass

            print(
                name,
                "addresses found:",
                [hex(device_address) for device_address in bus.scan()],
            )

            bus.unlock()

        time.sleep(2)
else:
    print("No valid I2C bus found.")

Upload the Project Bundle with Web Workflow

Follow these steps to add the code.py file from the Project Bundle to the ItsyBitsy ESP32 with Web Workflow. 

Here's an example testing WiFi connectivity with the ItsyBitsy ESP32 with Web Workflow.

Download the Project Bundle

In the example below, click the Download Project Bundle button to download the necessary library and Python files in a zip file. Then, extract the contents of the zip file.

# SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2017 Limor Fried for Adafruit Industries
#
# SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT

import os
import ipaddress
import ssl
import wifi
import socketpool
import adafruit_requests

# URLs to fetch from
TEXT_URL = "http://wifitest.adafruit.com/testwifi/index.html"
JSON_QUOTES_URL = "https://www.adafruit.com/api/quotes.php"
JSON_STARS_URL = "https://api.github.com/repos/adafruit/circuitpython"

print("ItsyBitsy ESP32 WebClient Test")

print(f"My MAC address: {[hex(i) for i in wifi.radio.mac_address]}")

print("Available WiFi networks:")
for network in wifi.radio.start_scanning_networks():
    print("\t%s\t\tRSSI: %d\tChannel: %d" % (str(network.ssid, "utf-8"),
                                             network.rssi, network.channel))
wifi.radio.stop_scanning_networks()

print(f"Connecting to {os.getenv('CIRCUITPY_WIFI_SSID')}")
wifi.radio.connect(os.getenv("CIRCUITPY_WIFI_SSID"), os.getenv("CIRCUITPY_WIFI_PASSWORD"))
print(f"Connected to {os.getenv('CIRCUITPY_WIFI_SSID')}")
print(f"My IP address: {wifi.radio.ipv4_address}")

ping_ip = ipaddress.IPv4Address("8.8.8.8")
ping = wifi.radio.ping(ip=ping_ip)

# retry once if timed out
if ping is None:
    ping = wifi.radio.ping(ip=ping_ip)

if ping is None:
    print("Couldn't ping 'google.com' successfully")
else:
    # convert s to ms
    print(f"Pinging 'google.com' took: {ping * 1000} ms")

pool = socketpool.SocketPool(wifi.radio)
requests = adafruit_requests.Session(pool, ssl.create_default_context())

print(f"Fetching text from {TEXT_URL}")
response = requests.get(TEXT_URL)
print("-" * 40)
print(response.text)
print("-" * 40)

print(f"Fetching json from {JSON_QUOTES_URL}")
response = requests.get(JSON_QUOTES_URL)
print("-" * 40)
print(response.json())
print("-" * 40)

print()

print(f"Fetching and parsing json from {JSON_STARS_URL}")
response = requests.get(JSON_STARS_URL)
print("-" * 40)
print(f"CircuitPython GitHub Stars: {response.json()['stargazers_count']}")
print("-" * 40)

print("Done")

# SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2017 Limor Fried for Adafruit Industries
#
# SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT

import os
import ipaddress
import ssl
import wifi
import socketpool
import adafruit_requests

# URLs to fetch from
TEXT_URL = "http://wifitest.adafruit.com/testwifi/index.html"
JSON_QUOTES_URL = "https://www.adafruit.com/api/quotes.php"
JSON_STARS_URL = "https://api.github.com/repos/adafruit/circuitpython"

print("ItsyBitsy ESP32 WebClient Test")

print(f"My MAC address: {[hex(i) for i in wifi.radio.mac_address]}")

print("Available WiFi networks:")
for network in wifi.radio.start_scanning_networks():
    print("\t%s\t\tRSSI: %d\tChannel: %d" % (str(network.ssid, "utf-8"),
                                             network.rssi, network.channel))
wifi.radio.stop_scanning_networks()

print(f"Connecting to {os.getenv('CIRCUITPY_WIFI_SSID')}")
wifi.radio.connect(os.getenv("CIRCUITPY_WIFI_SSID"), os.getenv("CIRCUITPY_WIFI_PASSWORD"))
print(f"Connected to {os.getenv('CIRCUITPY_WIFI_SSID')}")
print(f"My IP address: {wifi.radio.ipv4_address}")

ping_ip = ipaddress.IPv4Address("8.8.8.8")
ping = wifi.radio.ping(ip=ping_ip)

# retry once if timed out
if ping is None:
    ping = wifi.radio.ping(ip=ping_ip)

if ping is None:
    print("Couldn't ping 'google.com' successfully")
else:
    # convert s to ms
    print(f"Pinging 'google.com' took: {ping * 1000} ms")

pool = socketpool.SocketPool(wifi.radio)
requests = adafruit_requests.Session(pool, ssl.create_default_context())

print(f"Fetching text from {TEXT_URL}")
response = requests.get(TEXT_URL)
print("-" * 40)
print(response.text)
print("-" * 40)

print(f"Fetching json from {JSON_QUOTES_URL}")
response = requests.get(JSON_QUOTES_URL)
print("-" * 40)
print(response.json())
print("-" * 40)

print()

print(f"Fetching and parsing json from {JSON_STARS_URL}")
response = requests.get(JSON_STARS_URL)
print("-" * 40)
print(f"CircuitPython GitHub Stars: {response.json()['stargazers_count']}")
print("-" * 40)

print("Done")

Upload the Project Bundle with Web Workflow

Follow these steps to add the /lib folder and code.py file from the Project Bundle to the ItsyBitsy ESP32 with Web Workflow. 

You need to install the right USB-to-serial driver for your chip in addition to the Arduino IDE. If you are unsure which is the right one, install both!

Install Arduino IDE

The first thing you will need to do is to download the latest release of the Arduino IDE. You will need to be using version 1.8 or higher for this guide

Install CP2104 / CP2102N USB Driver

The USB-to-Serial converter that talks to the ESP32 chip itself will need a driver on your computer's operating system. The driver is available for Mac and Windows. It is already built into Linux.

Install CH9102 / CH34X USB Driver

Newer ESP32 boards have a different USB-to-serial converter that talks to the chip itself, and will need a driver on your computer's operating system. The driver is available for Mac and Windows. It is already built into Linux.

If you would like more detail, check out the guide on installing these drivers.

Install ESP32 Board Support Package

After you have downloaded and installed the latest version of Arduino IDE, you will need to start the IDE and navigate to the Preferences menu. You can access it from the File menu in Windows or Linux, or the Arduino menu on OS X.

A dialog will pop up just like the one shown below.

We will be adding a URL to the new Additional Boards Manager URLs option. The list of URLs is comma separated, and you will only have to add each URL once. New Adafruit boards and updates to existing boards will automatically be picked up by the Board Manager each time it is opened. The URLs point to index files that the Board Manager uses to build the list of available & installed boards.

To find the most up to date list of URLs you can add, you can visit the list of third party board URLs on the Arduino IDE wiki. We will only need to add one URL to the IDE in this example, but you can add multiple URLS by separating them with commas. Copy and paste the link below into the Additional Boards Manager URLs option in the Arduino IDE preferences.

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/espressif/arduino-esp32/gh-pages/package_esp32_dev_index.json

If you have multiple boards you want to support, say ESP8266 and Adafruit, have both URLs in the text box separated by a comma (,)

Once done click OK to save the new preference settings.

The next step is to actually install the Board Support Package (BSP). Go to the Tools → Board → Board Manager submenu. A dialog should come up with various BSPs. Search for esp32.

Click the Install button and wait for it to finish. Once it is finished, you can close the dialog.

In the Tools → Board submenu you should see ESP32 Arduino and in that dropdown it should contain the ESP32 boards along with all the latest ESP32 boards.

Look for the board called Adafruit ItsyBitsy ESP32.

The upload speed can be changed: faster speed makes uploads take less time but sometimes can cause upload issues. 921600 should work fine, but if you're having issues, you can drop down lower.

The first and most basic program you can upload to your Arduino is the classic Blink sketch. This takes something on the board and makes it, well, blink! On and off. It's a great way to make sure everything is working and you're uploading your sketch to the right board and right configuration.

When all else fails, you can always come back to Blink!

Pre-Flight Check: Get Arduino IDE & Hardware Set Up

This lesson assumes you have Arduino IDE set up. This is a generalized checklist, some elements may not apply to your hardware. If you haven't yet, check the previous steps in the guide to make sure you:

• Install the very latest Arduino IDE for Desktop (not all boards are supported by the Web IDE so we don't recommend it)
• Install any board support packages (BSP) required for your hardware. Some boards are built in defaults on the IDE, but lots are not! You may need to install plug-in support which is called the BSP.
• Get a Data/Sync USB cable for connecting your hardware. A significant amount of problems folks have stem from not having a USB cable with data pins. Yes, these cursed cables roam the land, making your life hard. If you find a USB cable that doesn't work for data/sync, throw it away immediately! There is no need to keep it around, cables are very inexpensive these days.
• Install any drivers required - If you have a board with a FTDI or CP210x chip, you may need to get separate drivers. If your board has native USB, it probably doesn't need anything. After installing, reboot to make sure the driver sinks in.
• Connect the board to your computer. If your board has a power LED, make sure its lit. Is there a power switch? Make sure its turned On!

The ItsyBitsy ESP32 has no power LED or power switch. 

Start up Arduino IDE and Select Board/Port

OK now you are prepared! Open the Arduino IDE on your computer. Now you have to tell the IDE what board you are using, and how you want to connect to it.

In the IDE find the Tools menu. You will use this to select the board. If you switch boards, you must switch the selection! So always double-check before you upload code in a new session.

New Blink Sketch

OK lets make a new blink sketch! From the File menu, select New

Then in the new window, copy and paste this text:

int led = LED_BUILTIN;

void setup() {
  // Some boards work best if we also make a serial connection
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // set LED to be an output pin
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {
  // Say hi!
  Serial.println("Hello!");
  
  digitalWrite(led, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(500);                // wait for a half second
  digitalWrite(led, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
  delay(500);                // wait for a half second
}

int led = LED_BUILTIN;

void setup() {
  // Some boards work best if we also make a serial connection
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // set LED to be an output pin
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {
  // Say hi!
  Serial.println("Hello!");
  
  digitalWrite(led, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
  delay(500);                // wait for a half second
  digitalWrite(led, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
  delay(500);                // wait for a half second
}

One note you'll see is that we reference the LED with the constant LED_BUILTIN rather than a number. That's because, historically, the built in LED was on pin 13 for Arduinos. But in the decades since, boards don't always have a pin 13, or maybe it could not be used for an LED. So the LED could have moved to another pin. It's best to use LED_BUILTIN so you don't get the pin number confused!

The red LED on the ItsyBitsy ESP32 is available as LED_BUILTIN, as well as 13.

Verify (Compile) Sketch

OK now you can click the Verify button to convert the sketch into binary data to be uploaded to the board.

Note that Verifying a sketch is the same as Compiling a sketch - so we will use the words interchangeably

During verification/compilation, the computer will do a bunch of work to collect all the libraries and code and the results will appear in the bottom window of the IDE

If something went wrong with compilation, you will get red warning/error text in the bottom window letting you know what the error was. It will also highlight the line with an error

For example, here I had the wrong board selected - and the selected board does not have a built in LED!

Here's another common error, in my haste I forgot to add a ; at the end of a line. The compiler warns me that it's looking for one - note that the error is actually a few lines up!

On success you will see something like this white text output and the message Done compiling. in the message area.

Upload Sketch

Once the code is verified/compiling cleanly you can upload it to your board. Click the Upload button

The IDE will try to compile the sketch again for good measure, then it will try to connect to the board and upload a the file.

This is actually one of the hardest parts for beginners because it's where a lot of things can go wrong.

However, lets start with what it looks like on success! Here's what your board upload process looks like when it goes right:

Often times you will get a warning like this, which is kind of vague:

No device found on COM66 (or whatever port is selected)
An error occurred while uploading the sketch

This could be a few things.

First up, check again that you have the correct board selected! Many electronics boards have very similar names or look, and often times folks grab a board different from what they thought.

Second, make sure you selected the right port! If you have the wrong port or no port selected, Arduino doesn't know where to look for your board.

If both of those are correct, the next step is to enable verbose upload messages.

Before continuing we really really suggest turning on Verbose Upload messages, it will help in this process because you will be able to see what the IDE is trying to do. It's a checkbox in the Preferences menu.

Now you can try uploading again!

This time, you should have success!

After uploading this way, be sure to click the reset button - it sort of makes sure that the board got a good reset and will come back to life nicely.

Finally, a Blink!

OK it was a journey but now we're here and you can enjoy your blinking LED. Next up, try to change the delay between blinks and re-upload. It's a good way to make sure your upload process is smooth and practiced.

A lot of sensors, displays, and devices can connect over I2C. I2C is a 2-wire 'bus' that allows multiple devices to all connect on one set of pins so it's very convenient for wiring!

When using your board, you'll probably want to connect up I2C devices, and it can be a little tricky the first time. The best way to debug I2C is go through a checklist and then perform an I2C scan

Common I2C Connectivity Issues

• Have you connected four wires (at a minimum) for each I2C device? Power the device with whatever is the logic level of your microcontroller board (probably 3.3V), then a ground wire, and a SCL clock wire, and and a SDA data wire.
• If you're using a STEMMA QT board - check if the power LED is lit. It's usually a green LED to the left side of the board.
• Does the STEMMA QT/I2C port have switchable power or pullups? To reduce power, some boards have the ability to cut power to I2C devices or the pullup resistors. Check the documentation if you have to do something special to turn on the power or pullups.
• If you are using a DIY I2C device, do you have pullup resistors? Many boards do not have pullup resistors built in and they are required! We suggest any common 2.2K to 10K resistors. You'll need two: one each connects from SDA to positive power, and SCL to positive power. Again, positive power (a.k.a VCC, VDD or V+) is often 3.3V
• Do you have an address collision? You can only have one board per address. So you cannot, say, connect two AHT20's to one I2C port because they have the same address and will interfere. Check the sensor or documentation for the address. Sometimes there are ways to adjust the address.
• Does your board have multiple I2C ports? Historically, boards only came with one. But nowadays you can have two or even three! This can help solve the "hey, but what if I want two devices with the same address" problem: just put one on each bus.
• Are you hot-plugging devices? I2C does not support dynamic re-connection, you cannot connect and disconnect sensors as you please. They should all be connected on boot and not change. (Only exception is if you're using a hot-plug assistant but that'll cost you).
• Are you keeping the total bus length reasonable? I2C was designed for maybe 6" max length. We like to push that with plug-n-play cables, but really please keep them as short as possible! (Only exception is if you're using an active bus extender).

The ItsyBitsy ESP32 does not have I2C pullup resistors - make sure any sensor you attach to the I2C port has resistors or add them yourself.

Perform an I2C scan!

Install TestBed Library

To scan I2C, the Adafruit TestBed library is used. This library and example just makes the scan a little easier to run because it takes care of some of the basics. You will need to add support by installing the library. Good news: it is very easy to do it. Go to the Arduino Library Manager.

Search for TestBed and install the Adafruit TestBed library

Now open up the I2C Scan example

// SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2023 Carter Nelson for Adafruit Industries
//
// SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT
// --------------------------------------
// i2c_scanner
//
// Modified from https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/I2cScanner/
// --------------------------------------

#include <Wire.h>

// Set I2C bus to use: Wire, Wire1, etc.
#define WIRE Wire

void setup() {
  WIRE.begin();

  Serial.begin(9600);
  while (!Serial)
     delay(10);
  Serial.println("\nI2C Scanner");
}


void loop() {
  byte error, address;
  int nDevices;

  Serial.println("Scanning...");

  nDevices = 0;
  for(address = 1; address < 127; address++ )
  {
    // The i2c_scanner uses the return value of
    // the Write.endTransmisstion to see if
    // a device did acknowledge to the address.
    WIRE.beginTransmission(address);
    error = WIRE.endTransmission();

    if (error == 0)
    {
      Serial.print("I2C device found at address 0x");
      if (address<16)
        Serial.print("0");
      Serial.print(address,HEX);
      Serial.println("  !");

      nDevices++;
    }
    else if (error==4)
    {
      Serial.print("Unknown error at address 0x");
      if (address<16)
        Serial.print("0");
      Serial.println(address,HEX);
    }
  }
  if (nDevices == 0)
    Serial.println("No I2C devices found\n");
  else
    Serial.println("done\n");

  delay(5000);           // wait 5 seconds for next scan
}

// SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2023 Carter Nelson for Adafruit Industries
//
// SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT
// --------------------------------------
// i2c_scanner
//
// Modified from https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/I2cScanner/
// --------------------------------------

#include <Wire.h>

// Set I2C bus to use: Wire, Wire1, etc.
#define WIRE Wire

void setup() {
  WIRE.begin();

  Serial.begin(9600);
  while (!Serial)
     delay(10);
  Serial.println("\nI2C Scanner");
}


void loop() {
  byte error, address;
  int nDevices;

  Serial.println("Scanning...");

  nDevices = 0;
  for(address = 1; address < 127; address++ )
  {
    // The i2c_scanner uses the return value of
    // the Write.endTransmisstion to see if
    // a device did acknowledge to the address.
    WIRE.beginTransmission(address);
    error = WIRE.endTransmission();

    if (error == 0)
    {
      Serial.print("I2C device found at address 0x");
      if (address<16)
        Serial.print("0");
      Serial.print(address,HEX);
      Serial.println("  !");

      nDevices++;
    }
    else if (error==4)
    {
      Serial.print("Unknown error at address 0x");
      if (address<16)
        Serial.print("0");
      Serial.println(address,HEX);
    }
  }
  if (nDevices == 0)
    Serial.println("No I2C devices found\n");
  else
    Serial.println("done\n");

  delay(5000);           // wait 5 seconds for next scan
}

Wire up I2C device

While the examples here will be using the Adafruit MCP9808, a high accuracy temperature sensor, the overall process is the same for just about any I2C sensor or device.

The first thing you'll want to do is get the sensor connected so your board has I2C to talk to.

Wiring the MCP9808

The MCP9808 comes with a STEMMA QT connector, which makes wiring it up quite simple and solder-free.

Now upload the scanning sketch to your microcontroller and open the serial port to see the output. You should see something like this:

What is WipperSnapper

WipperSnapper is a firmware designed to turn any WiFi-capable board into an Internet-of-Things device without programming a single line of code. WipperSnapper connects to Adafruit IO, a web platform designed (by Adafruit!) to display, respond, and interact with your project's data.

Simply load the WipperSnapper firmware onto your board, add credentials, and plug it into power. Your board will automatically register itself with your Adafruit IO account.

From there, you can add components to your board such as buttons, switches, potentiometers, sensors, and more! Components are dynamically added to hardware, so you can immediately start interacting, logging, and streaming the data your projects produce without writing code.

Sign up for Adafruit.io

You will need an Adafruit IO account to use WipperSnapper on your board. If you do not already have one, head over to io.adafruit.com to create a free account.

Install USB Driver

Install CP2104 / CP2102N USB Driver

Many ESP32 boards have a USB-to-Serial converter that talks to the chip itself, and will need a driver on your computer's operating system. The driver is available for Mac, Windows, and Linux.

Install CH9102 / CH34X USB Driver

Newer ESP32 boards have a different USB-to-serial converter that talks to the chip itself, and will need a driver on your computer's operating system. The driver is available for Mac and Windows. It is already built into Linux.

If you would like more detail, check out the guide on installing these drivers.

Add a New Device to Adafruit IO

Log into your Adafruit IO account. Click the New Device button at the top of the page.

After clicking New Device, you should be on the board selector page. This page displays every board that is compatible with the WipperSnapper firmware.

In the board selector page's search bar, search for the ItsyBitsy ESP32. Once you've located the board you'd like to install WipperSnapper on, click the Choose Board button to bring you to the self-guided installation wizard.

Follow the step-by-step instructions on the page to install Wippersnapper on your device and connect it to Adafruit IO.

If the installation was successful, a popover should appear displaying that your board has successfully been detected by Adafruit IO.

Give your board a name and click "Continue to Device Page".

You should be brought to your board's device page.

Next, Visit this guide's WipperSnapper Essentials pages to learn how to interact with your board using Adafruit IO.

Feedback

Adafruit.io WipperSnapper is in beta and you can help improve it!

If you have  suggestions or general feedback about the installation process - visit https://io.adafruit.com/support, click "Contact Adafruit IO Support" and select "I have feedback or suggestions for the WipperSnapper Beta".

Troubleshooting

If you encountered an issue during installation, please try the steps below first.

If you're still unable to resolve the issue, or if your issue is not listed below, get in touch with us directly at https://io.adafruit.com/support. Make sure to click  "Contact Adafruit IO Support" and select "There is an issue with WipperSnapper. Something is broken!"

"Uninstalling" WipperSnapper 

WipperSnapper firmware is an application that is loaded onto your board. There is nothing to "uninstall". However, you may want to "move" your board from running WipperSnapper to running Arduino or CircuitPython. You also may need to restore your board to the state it was shipped to you from the Adafruit factory. 

Moving from WipperSnapper to CircuitPython

Follow the steps on the Installing CircuitPython page to install CircuitPython on your board running WipperSnapper.

• If you are unable to double-tap the RST button to enter the UF2 bootloader, follow the "Factory Resetting a WipperSnapper Board" instructions below.

Uploading this sketch will overwrite WipperSnapper. If you want to re-install WipperSnapper, follow the instructions at the top of this page.

Moving from WipperSnapper to Arduino

If you want to use your board with Arduino, you will use the Arduino IDE to load any sketch onto your board.

First, follow the page below to set up your Arduino IDE environment for use with your board.

Then, follow the page below to upload the "Arduino Blink" sketch to your board.

Uploading this sketch will overwrite WipperSnapper. If you want to re-install WipperSnapper, follow the instructions at the top of this page.

Factory Resetting a WipperSnapper Board

Sometimes, hardware gets into a state that requires it to be "restored" to the original state it shipped in. If you'd like to get your board back to its original factory state, follow the guide below.

You've installed WipperSnapper firmware on your board and connected it to Adafruit IO. Next, let's learn how to use Adafruit IO!

The Adafruit IO supports a large number of components. Components are physical parts such as buttons, switches, sensors, servos, LEDs, RGB LEDs, and more. 

The following pages will get you up and running with WipperSnapper as you interact with your board's LED, read the value of a push button, send the value of an I2C sensor to the internet, and wirelessly control colorful LEDs.

Parts

The following parts are required to complete the WipperSnapper essentials pages for this board:

One of the first programs you typically write to get used to embedded programming is a sketch that repeatably blinks an LED. IoT projects are wireless, so after completing this section, you'll be able to turn on (or off) the LED built into your board from anywhere in the world.

Where is the LED on my board?

Create a LED Component on Adafruit IO

On the device page, click the New Component (or "+") button to open the component picker.

On the Create LED Component form, the board's LED pin is pre-selected. 

Click Create Component.

Behind the scenes, Adafruit IO sends send a command to your board running WipperSnapper telling it to configure "LED Pin" as a digital output.

Your board's page on Adafruit IO shows a new LED component.

Usage

On the board page, toggle the LED component by clicking the toggle switch. This should turn your board's built-in LED on or off.

The built-in LED pin (D13) also supports PWM, and can instead be used as a Dimmable LED component as shown here:

You can configure a board running WipperSnapper to read data from standard input buttons, switches, or digital sensors, and send the value to Adafruit IO.

From Adafruit IO, you will configure one of the pushbuttons on your board as a push button component. Then, when the button is pressed (or released), a value will be published to Adafruit IO.

Button Location

This example uses the board's built-in push-button and internal pull-up resistor instead of wiring a push-button up.

Create a Push-button Component on Adafruit IO

On the device page, click the New Component (or "+") button to open the component picker.

The "Create Push Button Component" form presents you with options for configuring the push button.

Start by selecting the board's pin connected to the push button.

The Return Interval dictates how frequently the value of the push-button will be sent from the board to Adafruit IO.

For this example, you will configure the push button's value to be only sent when the value changes (i.e. when it's either pressed or depressed).

Finally, check the Specify Pin Pull Direction checkbox and select the pull direction.

Make sure the form's settings look like the following screenshot. Then, click Create Component.

Adafruit IO sends a command to your WipperSnapper board, telling it to configure the GPIO pin you selected to behave as a digital input pin and to enable it to pull up the internal resistor.

Your board's page should also show the new push-button component.

Push the button on your board to change the value of the push-button component on Adafruit IO.

Your board has a WS281x RGB LED (NeoPixel, in Adafruit jargon) built in. Boards running the WipperSnapper firmware can be wirelessly controlled by Adafruit IO to interact with NeoPixels.

On this page, you'll learn how to change the color and brightness of the NeoPixel built into your board from Adafruit IO.

Where is the NeoPixel on my board?

Create the NeoPixel Component

On the device page, click the New Component (or "+") button to open the component picker.

The board NeoPixel pin is automatically found and selected.

Click Create Component

Behind the scenes, Adafruit IO sends a command to your board running WipperSnapper firmware telling it to configure the pin as a NeoPixel component with the settings from the form.

The Device page shows the NeoPixel component.

Set the NeoPixel's RGB Color

Since no colors have been set yet, the color picker's default value is #000000 (black in hex color code) and appears "off". You can change that to make the NeoPixel shine brightly! 

On the NeoPixel component, click the color dropper at the end of the color swatch list.

A color picker pops open! Next: learning how Adafruit IO uses hex color codes to represent the colors on your NeoPixel.

Hex Colors 101

The color picker on Adafruit IO uses hex color codes to represent Red, Green, and Blue values. For example, #FF0000 is the hex color code for the color red. The colors (#FF0000) red component is FF (255 translated to decimal), the green component is 00 and the blue component is 00. Translated to RGB format, the color is RGB (255, 0, 0). 

Using the color picker, or by manually entering a hex color code, select a color.

When you're ready to set the color of your device's NeoPixel, click FILL WITH COLOR. The NeoPixel will immediately glow!

Set NeoPixel Brightness

If the NeoPixel is too bright (or too dim), you can change the overall brightness. Click the gear/cog icon on the NeoPixel component to open its settings.

On the NeoPixel component form, set Brightness to a value between 0 (fully off) and 255 (full brightness).

Click the Update Component button to send the updated configuration to your device. 

Inter-Integrated Circuit, aka I2C, is a two-wire protocol for connecting sensors and "devices" to a microcontroller. A large number of sensors, including the ones sold by Adafruit, use I2C to communicate. 

Typically, using I2C with a microcontroller involves programming. Adafruit IO and WipperSnapper let you configure a microcontroller to read data from an I2C sensor and publish that data to the internet without writing code.

The WipperSnapper firmware supports a number of I2C sensors, viewable in list format here.

• If you do not see the I2C sensor you're attempting to use with WipperSnapper, Adafruit has a guide on adding a component to Adafruit IO WipperSnapper here. 

On this page, you'll learn how to wire up an I2C sensor to your board. Then, you'll create a new component on Adafruit IO for your I2C sensor and send the sensor values to Adafruit IO. Finally, you'll learn how to locate, interpret, and download the data produced by your sensors.

Parts

You will need the following parts to complete this page:

Wiring

Add an MCP9808 Component

On the device page, click the New Component (or "+") button to open the component picker.

On the component configuration page, the MCP9808's I2C sensor address should be listed along with the sensor's settings.

The MCP9808 sensor can measure ambient temperature. This page has individual options for reading the ambient temperature, in either Celsius or Fahrenheit. You may select the readings which are appropriate to your application and region.

The Send Every option is specific to each sensor measurement. This option will tell the board how often it should read from the sensor and send the data to Adafruit IO. Measurements can range from every 30 seconds to every 24 hours.

For this example, set the Send Every interval for both seconds to Every 30 seconds. Click Create Component.

The board page should now show the MCP9808 component you created. After the interval you configured elapses, the WipperSnapper firmware running on your board automatically reads values from the sensor and sends them to Adafruit IO.

Read I2C Sensor Values

Now to look behind the scenes at a powerful element of using Adafruit IO and WipperSnapper. When a new component is created on Adafruit IO, an Adafruit IO Feed is also created. This Feed holds your sensor component values for long-term storage (30 days of storage for Adafruit IO Free and 60 days for Adafruit IO Plus plans).

Aside from holding the values read by a sensor, the component's feed also holds metadata about the data pushed to Adafruit IO. This includes settings for whether the data is public or private, what license the stored sensor data falls under, and a general description of the data.

Next, to look at the sensor temperature feed. To navigate to a component's feed, click on the chart icon in the upper-right-hand corner of the component.

On the component's feed page, you'll each data point read by your sensor and when they were reported to Adafruit IO.

Doing more with your sensor's Adafruit IO Feed

This only scratches the surface of what Adafruit IO Feeds can accomplish for your IoT projects. For a complete overview of Adafruit IO Feeds, including tasks like downloading feed data, sharing a feed, removing erroneous data points from a feed, and more, head over to the "Adafruit IO Basics: Feed" learning guide.

Your microcontroller board has both digital and analog signal capabilities. Some pins are analog, some are digital, and some are capable of both. Check the Pinouts page in this guide for details about your board.

Analog signals are different from digital signals in that they can be any voltage and can vary continuously and smoothly between voltages. An analog signal is like a dimmer switch on a light, whereas a digital signal is like a simple on/off switch. 

Digital signals only can ever have two states, they are either are on (high logic level voltage like 3.3V) or off (low logic level voltage like 0V / ground).

By contrast, analog signals can be any voltage in-between on and off, such as 1.8V or 0.001V or 2.98V and so on.

Analog signals are continuous values which means they can be an infinite number of different voltages. Think of analog signals like a floating point or fractional number, they can smoothly transiting to any in-between value like 1.8V, 1.81V, 1.801V, 1.8001V, 1.80001V and so forth to infinity.

Many devices use analog signals, in particular sensors typically output an analog signal or voltage that varies based on something being sensed like light, heat, humidity, etc.

Analog to Digital Converter (ADC)

An analog-to-digital-converter, or ADC, is the key to reading analog signals and voltages with a microcontroller. An ADC is a device that reads the voltage of an analog signal and converts it into a digital, or numeric, value. The microcontroller can’t read analog signals directly, so the analog signal is first converted into a numeric value by the ADC. 

The black line below shows a digital signal over time, and the red line shows the converted analog signal over the same amount of time.

Once that analog signal has been converted by the ADC, the microcontroller can use those digital values any way you like!

Potentiometers

A potentiometer is a small variable resistor that you can twist a knob or shaft to change its resistance. It has three pins. By twisting the knob on the potentiometer you can change the resistance of the middle pin (called the wiper) to be anywhere within the range of resistance of the potentiometer.

By wiring the potentiometer to your board in a special way (called a voltage divider) you can turn the change in resistance into a change in voltage that your board’s analog to digital converter can read.

To wire up a potentiometer as a voltage divider:

Hardware

In addition to your microcontroller board, you will need the following hardware to follow along with this example.

Potentiometer

Wire Up the Potentiometer

Connect the potentiometer to your board as follows.

Create a Potentiometer Component on Adafruit IO

On the device page, click the New Component (or "+") button to open the component picker.

On the Create Potentiometer Component form:

• Set Potentiometer Pin to A3

• Select "On Change" as the Return Interval
• Select Raw Analog Value as the Return Type

Then, click Create Component

The potentiometer component appears on your board page! Next, learning to read values from it.

Read Analog Pin Values

Rotate the potentiometer to see the value change.

What do these values mean?

WipperSnapper reports ADC "raw values" as 16-bit unsigned integer values. Your potentiometer will read between 0 (twisting the pot to the leftmost position) and 65535 (twisting the pot to the rightmost position). 

Read Analog Pin Voltage Values

You can update the potentiometer component (or any analog pin component in WipperSnapper) to report values in Volts. To do this, on the right-hand side of the potentiometer component, click the cog button.

Under Return Type, click Voltage.

Click Update Component to send the updated component settings to your board running WipperSnapper.

Now, twist the potentiometer to see the value reported to Adafruit IO in Volts!

Your microcontroller ships running a factory demo. It's lovely, but you probably had other plans for the board. As you start working with your board, you may want to return to the original code to begin again, or you may find your board gets into a bad state. Either way, this page has you covered.

Factory Reset Example Code

If you're still able to load Arduino sketches, you can load the following sketch onto your board to return it to its original state.

// SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2024 ladyada for Adafruit Industries
//
// SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT

#include "WiFi.h"
#include <Adafruit_TestBed.h>
extern Adafruit_TestBed TB;

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);  
  Serial.println("ItsyBitsy ESP32 Factory Reset");

  TB.neopixelPin = PIN_NEOPIXEL;
  TB.neopixelNum = 1; 
  TB.begin();
  TB.setColor(0x0);
}

uint8_t j = 0;
void loop() {
    pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
    if (j == 255) {
      TB.setColor(GREEN);
      Serial.println("scan start");
      // WiFi.scanNetworks will return the number of networks found
      int n = WiFi.scanNetworks();
      Serial.println("scan done");
      if (n == 0) {
        Serial.println("no networks found");
      } else {
        Serial.print(n);
        Serial.println(" networks found");
        for (int i = 0; i < n; ++i) {
            // Print SSID and RSSI for each network found
            Serial.print(i + 1);
            Serial.print(": ");
            Serial.print(WiFi.SSID(i));
            Serial.print(" (");
            Serial.print(WiFi.RSSI(i));
            Serial.print(")");
            Serial.println((WiFi.encryptionType(i) == WIFI_AUTH_OPEN)?" ":"*");
            delay(10);
        }
      }
      Serial.println("");
    }
    
    TB.setColor(TB.Wheel(j++));
    delay(10);
    if (j % 20 == 10) digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
    if (j % 20 == 0) digitalWrite(13, LOW);
    return;
  
}

// SPDX-FileCopyrightText: 2024 ladyada for Adafruit Industries
//
// SPDX-License-Identifier: MIT

#include "WiFi.h"
#include <Adafruit_TestBed.h>
extern Adafruit_TestBed TB;

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);  
  Serial.println("ItsyBitsy ESP32 Factory Reset");

  TB.neopixelPin = PIN_NEOPIXEL;
  TB.neopixelNum = 1; 
  TB.begin();
  TB.setColor(0x0);
}

uint8_t j = 0;
void loop() {
    pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
    if (j == 255) {
      TB.setColor(GREEN);
      Serial.println("scan start");
      // WiFi.scanNetworks will return the number of networks found
      int n = WiFi.scanNetworks();
      Serial.println("scan done");
      if (n == 0) {
        Serial.println("no networks found");
      } else {
        Serial.print(n);
        Serial.println(" networks found");
        for (int i = 0; i < n; ++i) {
            // Print SSID and RSSI for each network found
            Serial.print(i + 1);
            Serial.print(": ");
            Serial.print(WiFi.SSID(i));
            Serial.print(" (");
            Serial.print(WiFi.RSSI(i));
            Serial.print(")");
            Serial.println((WiFi.encryptionType(i) == WIFI_AUTH_OPEN)?" ":"*");
            delay(10);
        }
      }
      Serial.println("");
    }
    
    TB.setColor(TB.Wheel(j++));
    delay(10);
    if (j % 20 == 10) digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
    if (j % 20 == 0) digitalWrite(13, LOW);
    return;
  
}

Your board is now back to its factory-shipped state! You can now begin again with your plans for your board.

Factory Reset .bin

If your board is in a state where Arduino isn't working, you may need to use these tools to flash a .bin file directly onto your board.

There are two ways to do a factory reset. The first is using WebSerial through a Chromium-based browser, and the second is using esptool via command line. We highly recommend using WebSerial through Chrome/Chromium.

First you'll need to download the factory-reset.bin file. Save the following file wherever is convenient for you. You'll need access to it for both tools.

Now that you've downloaded the .bin file, you're ready to continue with the factory reset process. The next two sections walk you through using WebSerial and esptool.

The WebSerial ESPTool Method

This method uses the WebSerial ESPTool through Chrome or a Chromium-based browser. The WebSerial ESPTool was designed to be a web-capable option for programming ESP32 boards. It allows you to erase the contents of the microcontroller and program up to four files at different offsets.

You will have to use a Chromium browser (like Chrome, Opera, Edge...) for this to work, Safari and Firefox, etc. are not supported because we need Web Serial and only Chromium is supporting it to the level needed.

Follow the steps to complete the factory reset.

Connect

You should have plugged in only the ESP32 that you intend to flash. That way there's no confusion in picking the proper port when it's time!

Erase the Contents

Program the ESP32

Programming the microcontroller can be done with up to four files at different locations, but with the board-specific factory-reset.bin file, which you should have downloaded earlier, you only need to use one file.

Once completed, you can skip down to the section titled Reset the Board.

The esptool Method (for advanced users)

Alternatively, you can use Espressif's esptool program to communicate with the chip! esptool is the 'official' programming tool and is the most common/complete way to program an ESP chip.

Install ESPTool.py

You will need to use the command line / Terminal to install and run esptool.

You will also need to have pip and Python installed (any version!).

Install the latest version using pip (you may be able to run pip without the 3 depending on your setup):

pip3 install --upgrade esptool

Then, you can run:

esptool.py

Test the Installation

Run esptool.py in a new terminal/command line and verify you get something like the below:

Connect

Run the following command, replacing the COM88 identifier after --port with the COMxx, /dev/cu.usbmodemxx or /dev/ttySxx you found above.

esptool.py --port COM88 chip_id

You should get a notice that it connected over that port and found an ESP32.

Installing the Factory Test file

Run this command and replace the serial port name, COM88, with your matching port and *-factory-reset.bin with file you just downloaded

esptool.py --port COM88 write_flash 0x0 *-factory-reset.bin


Don't forget to change the --port name to match.

There might be a bit of a 'wait' when programming, where it doesn't seem like it's working. Give it a minute, it has to erase the old flash code which can cause it to seem like it's not running.

You'll finally get an output like this:

Once completed, you can continue to the next section.

Reset the board

Now that you've reprogrammed the board, you need to reset it to continue. Click the reset button to launch the new firmware.

The NeoPixel LED on the ItsyBitsy ESP32 will show a rainbow swirl while blinking the onboard LED. Then, the NeoPixel will turn green while a WiFi network scan occurs. If you open the Serial Monitor, you'll see a list of detected WiFi networks.

You've successfully returned your board to a factory reset state!

Older Versions of Chrome

We suggest updating to Chrome 89 or newer, as Web Serial is enabled by default.

If you must continue using an older version of Chrome, follow these steps to enable Web Serial.

Files

• ESP32 datasheet
• CH9102 datasheet
• EagleCAD PCB files on GitHub
• 3D Models on GitHub
• Fritzing object in the Adafruit Fritzing Library
• PrettyPins pinout PDF on GitHub
• PrettyPins pinout SVG

Schematic and Fab Print

3D Model