Overview

Sometimes we wonder if robotics engineers ever watch movies. If they did, they'd know that making robots into slaves always ends up in a robot rebellion. Why even go down that path? Here at Adafruit, we believe in making robots our friends!

So if you find yourself wanting a companion, consider the robot. They're fun to program, and you can get creative with decorations.

With that in mind, we designed the Adafruit Crickit HAT - That's our Creative Robotics & Interactive Construction Kit. It's an add-on to the Raspberry Pi that lets you #MakeRobotFriend using Python!

Plug the Crickit HAT onto your Pi using the standard 2x20 GPIO connector and start controlling motors, servos, solenoids. You also get 8 signal pins with analog inputs or PWM outputs, capacitive touch sensors, a level-shifted NeoPixel driver and 3W amplified speaker output from the I2S port. It complements & extends your Pi, doing all the things a Pi can't do, so you can still use all the goodies on the Pi like video, camera, Internet, bluetooth... but now you have a robotics playground as well.

Control of the motors, sensors, NeoPixels, capacitive touch, etc. is all done in Python 3. It's the easiest and best way to program your Pi, and after a couple pip installs you'll be ready to go. Audio is handled by the Pi's built in audio system, so anything that plays audio will come out the speaker - that includes Python commands or any application with sound.

The Crickit HAT is powered by seesaw, our I2C-to-whatever bridge firmware. So you only need to use two data pins to control the huge number of inputs and outputs on the Crickit. All those timers, PWMs, NeoPixels, sensors are offloaded to the co-processor.

You get:

  • 4 x Analog or Digital Servo control, with precision 16-bit timers
  • 2 x Bi-directional brushed DC motor control, 1 Amp current limited each, with 8-bit PWM speed control (or one stepper)
  • 4 x High current "Darlington" 500mA drive outputs with kick-back diode protection. For solenoids, relays, large LEDs, or one uni-polar stepper
  • 4 x Capacitive touch input sensors with alligator-pads
  • 8 x Signal pins, can be used as digital in/out or analog inputs
  • 1 x NeoPixel driver with 5V level shifter - this is connected to the seesaw chip, not the Raspberry Pi, so you won't be giving up pin 18. It can drive over 100 pixels.
  • 1 x Class D, 4-8 ohm speaker, 3W-max audio amplifier - this is connected to the I2S pins on the Raspberry Pi for high quality digital audio. Works on any Pi, even Zero's that don't have an audio jack!
  • Built-in USB to serial converter. The USB port on the HAT can be used to update the seesaw firmware on the Crickit, or you can plug into your computer, it will also act as a USB converter for logging into the console and running command lines on the Pi.

All are powered via 5V DC, so you can use any 5V-powered servos, DC motors, steppers, solenoids, relays etc. To keep things simple and safe, we don't support mixing voltages, so only 5V, not for use with 9V or 12V robotic components.

Please note this board does not require any soldering but you will need a 5V power supply and a Raspberry Pi to go along with the Crickit, and these are not included!

We recommend also purchasing:

5V 2A (2000mA) switching power supply - UL Listed

PRODUCT ID: 276
This is a FCC/CE certified and UL listed power supply. Need a lot of 5V power? This switching supply gives a clean regulated 5V output at up to 2000mA. 110 or 240 input, so it works in...
$7.95
IN STOCK

And of course we have a huge collection of all compatible motors, servos, solenoids, speakers and more in our Crickit category

Since you'll be working with high-current devices, we wanted to have a good solid power supply system that minimizes risk of damage. The power supply has an 'eFuse' management chip that will automatically turn off if the voltage goes above 5.5V or below 3V and has over-current protection at 4A. Every motor driver has kick-back protection. We think this is a nice and durable board for robotics!

Update Your Crickit

Your Crickit contains a special interface chip we call seesaw. Like a see-saw you see in a playground, it goes up/down back/forth. In this case, instead of holding children, it sends commands and responses back and forth - motor movement, sensors inputs, signal i/o...

The seesaw code is contained in a microcontroller near the bottom of the Crickit, and that chip comes with the seesaw firmware on it already when  you get it!

But we do make improvements to the seesaw firmware, fix bugs, and improve performance

So its a good idea to update your Crickit when you get it! It's easy and only takes a few seconds.

Step 1. Plug in USB cable into seesaw/Crickit

There's a little USB connector at the bottom of your Crickit labeled seesaw only! Plug a standard data-sync USB cable into that port and into your computer. You do not need to plug in the DC power jack or power the Feather/CircuitPlayground.

Do check that the switch on the Crickit is switched to ON

Step 2. Double-click the Crickit Reset button

On the Crickit for CPX, Feather or Micro:bit, this button is next to the DC jack and is pretty large.

 

On the Raspberry Pi, its more compact, and is right below the status NeoPixel

Step 3. Look for pulsing yellow LED and green NeoPixel

If you have a good USB connection and you double-click right, you'll see the left LED turn green and the right hand little yellow LED start pulsing

Step 4. Look for a New Disk on Your Computer

You'll see a new disk drive on your computer called CRICKITBOOT (short for crickit bootloader)

Step 5. Download the latest firmware

Click here to go to the download page for the latest Crickit firmware releases.

Download the correct file for your specific hardware:

  • Crickit HAT = seesaw-crickitHat.uf2
  • All others = seesaw-crickit.uf2

Step 6. Drag UF2 file onto CRICKITBOOT

Drag that file you downloaded onto the disk drive, after it is completed the drive will disappear (you may get a complaint from the operating system)

 

 

That's it! You're now updated

Powering Crickit

On the Crickit HAT, the 5V power plug is next to the 2x20 connector

The first thing you'll learn when making robots is that they use a lot of power. So making sure you have your power supply all worked out is super important. We've tried to make the power supply as easy and safe as possible, so you don't have to worry about damaging your electronics or robot. To do that we made some important design decisions.

How to Power your Crickit

It's really important to read and understand how to power your Crickit!

  • You MUST provide about 4-5 Volts DC power to the Crickit to power the servos, motors, solenoids, NeoPixels, etc.
  • You CANNOT provide this power by plugging the Crickit, micro:bit, Feather, Raspberry Pi or  Circuit Playground into USB. Computer USB ports cannot provide the 2 Amp + required to drive robotics, LEDs, speakers...
  • Power to the Crickit is provided via the 2.1mm DC Jack only!
  • The Cricket has two LEDs to let you know how the power supply is doing. If you see the green LED next to the smiley face, you're good to go. If you see the red LED next to the warning triangle, the voltage is too high, too low or too much current is being drawn.
  • The Crickit power will also power the Circuit Playground Express, micro:bit, Raspberry Pi or Feather so you don't need separate power for your microcontroller board (however, if you want to plug it into USB for programming, that's totally OK too!)

Here's our recommended ways to power the Crickit:

Plug In DC Power Supplies

These get wall power and give you a nice clean 5V DC power option. 5V 2A works for most project with a motor or two...

5V 2A (2000mA) switching power supply - UL Listed

PRODUCT ID: 276
This is a FCC/CE certified and UL listed power supply. Need a lot of 5V power? This switching supply gives a clean regulated 5V output at up to 2000mA. 110 or 240 input, so it works in...
$7.95
IN STOCK

And a 5V 4A supply will give you lots of power so you can drive 4 or more servos, motors, etc. Use this if you notice you're running out of power with a 5V 2A adapter

5V 4A (4000mA) switching power supply - UL Listed

PRODUCT ID: 1466
Need a lot of 5V power? This switching supply gives a clean regulated 5V output at up to 4 Amps (4000mA). 110 or 240 input, so it works in any country. The plugs are "US...
OUT OF STOCK

AA Battery Packs

On the go? Portable power is possible! Use AA battery packs.

The number of batteries you need depends on whether you are using Alkaline or NiMH rechargeables.

We recommend NiMH rechargeables. For one, they have less waste, but they also perform better than alkalines in high-current draw robotics. So if you can, please use NiMH!

4 x AA Battery Packs for NiMH ONLY

NiMH batteries have a 1.3V max voltage, so 4 of them is 4 x 1.3 = 5.2 Volts. Perfect!

4 x AA Battery Holder with On/Off Switch

PRODUCT ID: 830
Make a nice portable power pack with this 4 x AA battery holder. It fits any alkaline or rechargeable AA batteries in series. There's a snap on cover and an on/off switch which can...
$2.95
IN STOCK

3 x AA Battery Packs for Alkaline ONLY

Alkaline batteries have a 1.5V max voltage, so 4 of them is 4 x 1.5 = 6 Volts. That's too high! Instead we recommend 3 in series for 3 x 1.5V = 4.5 VDC

3 x AA Battery Holder with 2.1mm Plug

PRODUCT ID: 3842
Here's another addition to our growing family of AA battery holders. A holder for three (3) AA batteries!...
$2.95
IN STOCK

If you're making a custom battery pack you may want to pick up a 2.1mm DC jack adapter, so you can connect battery pack wires

Waterproof 3xAA Battery Holder with On/Off Switch

PRODUCT ID: 771
Keep your power source safe and toasty in these waterproof 3xAA battery holders. They're just like classic switched battery holders, but designed for survival! The case has a rubber...
$3.95
IN STOCK

Male DC Power adapter - 2.1mm plug to screw terminal block

PRODUCT ID: 369
If you need to connect a battery pack or wired power supply to a board that has a DC jack - this adapter will come in very handy! There is a 2.1mm DC plug on one end, and a screw...
$2.00
IN STOCK

Not Recommended Power supplies

  • LiPoly Batteries - 1 battery is 3.7V, too low. 2 batteries is 7.2V, too high! You could possibly use a 7.2V pack and then a UBEC to step down to 5V but its not recommended
  • Lead Acid Batteries - These are heavy and you'll need a custom charging solution. You can probably get away with a 2 x 2V cell pack, or a 3 x 2V cell pack and then add some 1N4001 diodes to drop the voltage, but it's for advanced hacking!
  • USB Power Packs - In theory you can use a USB to 2.1mm DC power adapter, but power packs sometimes dislike the kinds of current draw that motors have (high current peaks for short amounts of time) So experimentation is key!

Speaker Output

The Crickit HAT's speaker is run by a MAX98357 I2S amplifier, you can set it up by installing via our script on the next page. It will appear as an everyday audio interface once that's done.

Enable Speaker Output

The Crickit HAT has the ability to mute the I2S amplifier via the GPIO 16 pin on the Raspberry Pi. This is attached by default, which means you will need to actually configure GPIO 16 to use this feature. If you do not configure GPIO 16, the amplifier will likely be muted by default.

If you don't want to mess with setting up GPIO 16 and would rather have the amplifier be on by default (you probably do), then you can do so by cutting the trace on the back of the HAT as shown below.

Here's where to find the trace. The label next to it reads:

I2S Mute

GPIO #16

 

Use an xacto or other sharp knife to carefully cut away the little bit of copper between the two larger pads.

If you have a multimeter, do a continuity check to make sure the trace is actually cut. In this case you don't want continuity, so if it beeps, try cutting again.

It will look a little scratchy when done, but that's OK.

And that's it! You should be good to go. Now you can move on to the next pages which will show you how to enable and configure the I2S audio output on the Raspberry Pi.

Python Installation

Before you begin you'll need to have a fully set up Raspberry Pi computer with internet connectivity.

You can use any Raspberry Pi computer with a 2x20 connector such as a Pi 3, Pi 2, Pi A+, Zero or Zero W, etc.

Install Adafruit-Blinka, Enable I2C

We have a full guide on installing Adafruit-Blinka and enabling I2C, including CircuitPython tests. The short instructions are below:

Update OS to latest with:

  • sudo apt-get update

  • sudo apt-get upgrade

  • sudo reboot

Enable I2C following this guide. Don't forget to reboot afterwards.

Make sure you are running Python3. Python2 is installed on many Linux computers, but Python3 is required!

  • sudo apt-get install -y python3 git python3-pip
  • sudo update-alternatives --install /usr/bin/python python /usr/bin/python2.7 1
  • sudo update-alternatives --install /usr/bin/python python /usr/bin/python3.5 2
  • sudo update-alternatives --config python

Then install the needed CRICKIT Python 3 libraries with

pip3 install RPI.GPIO adafruit-blinka

Power off & Install HAT

Shutdown the Pi safely with sudo shutdown -h now and install the HAT as shown. There's an extra long header standoff that goes between the Pi headers and the HAT. Make sure they are lined up correctly - Plugging in the HAT wrong can damage your Pi permanently!

Start the pi up again and open a terminal window if you boot to graphics mode.

On the command line, install I2C tools so you get the detect program with sudo apt-get install -y i2c-tools

Now scan for I2C to see that the Crickit is found with i2cdetect -y 1

If you get an error Error: Could not open file `/dev/i2c-1' or `/dev/i2c/1': No such file or directory - Enable I2C following this guide. Don't forget to reboot afterwards.

Note that you should be able to see the i2c address 0x49 appear even if the power switch on the HAT is off, or if no power is plugged into the DC jack.

If the i2c address doesn't appear, try clicking the reset button on the HAT once, to reset it, and try again.

Install Crickit library

We will use our Crickit library to make easy work of motors and sensor readings, install it with

pip3 install adafruit-circuitpython-crickit

You can test that your software installed properly by running Python 3 and entering these commands

Download: file
from adafruit_crickit import crickit
print(crickit.touch_1.value)
print(crickit.touch_1.value)

Between the second and third command, touch your finger to the first Capacitive Touch pad on the HAT.

 

If the value changes like in the screen shot below, it's working!

Recommended Motors

DC Gearbox Motors

These DC motors have a gear box already built in, and wires attached, so they're super easy to use:

DC Gearbox Motor - "TT Motor" - 200RPM - 3 to 6VDC

PRODUCT ID: 3777
Perhaps you've been assembling a new robot friend, adding a computer for a brain and other fun personality touches. Now the time has come to let it leave the nest and fly on...
$2.95
IN STOCK

We also have a wide range of matching wheels:

Orange and Clear TT Motor Wheel for TT DC Gearbox Motor

PRODUCT ID: 3766
Usually when one needs an orange wheel it's a garnish for a cocktail, like a tasty Sidecar. And speaking of cars, this wheel is for driving, not...
OUT OF STOCK

Thin White Wheel for TT DC Gearbox Motors - 65mm Diameter

PRODUCT ID: 3763
We're keepin' it wheel with this one! Plastic gear-box motors (also known as 'TT' motors) are an easy and low cost way to get your projects moving. But...
$1.50
IN STOCK

Skinny Wheel for TT DC Gearbox Motors

PRODUCT ID: 3757
Plastic gear-box motors (also known as 'TT' motors) are an easy and low cost way to get your projects moving. But we've noticed that there are not a lot of nice TT motor...
$2.50
IN STOCK

Other accessories are available, check the Adafruit shop for "TT Motor" items for the wide range of add-ons available.

Servo-style DC motor

If you need a motor that is very compact (but not very powerful) these DC-in-servo-body motors can do the job:

DC Motor in Micro Servo Body

PRODUCT ID: 2941
This tiny DC Motor in Micro Servo Body is an interesting motor - it's the same size and shape as our micro servo but it isn't a servo. It's...
OUT OF STOCK

Which can be used with this wheel:

Wheel for Micro Continuous Rotation FS90R Servo

PRODUCT ID: 2744
We're keepin' it wheel with this one!Need a great drive solution for your little robotic friends? This black plastic Micro Continuos...
$2.50
IN STOCK

Non-Geared DC Motor

Non-geared DC motors are very weak but very fast: great for fans:

DC Toy / Hobby Motor - 130 Size

PRODUCT ID: 711
These are standard '130 size' DC hobby motors. They come with a wider operating range than most toy motors: from 4.5 to 9VDC instead of 1.5-4.5V. This range makes them perfect...
$1.95
IN STOCK

Recommended Chassis

This chassis is cute, red and has two DC motors so its super easy to drive from the Crickit's dual DC motor port. You may need to use some wires to extend the DC motor connections (they're a tad short)

Mini Round Robot Chassis Kit - 2WD with DC Motors

PRODUCT ID: 3216
Unleash your inner Mad Max and make your vehicle dreams a reality with the Mini Red Round Robot Chassis...
$19.95
IN STOCK

This chassis is nearly identical, but has 3 layers, so you can FIT MORE STUFF!

Mini 3-Layer Round Robot Chassis Kit - 2WD with DC Motors

PRODUCT ID: 3244
Does this guy look familiar? Of course it does! It's our Black, 3-Layer Round Robot Chassis Kit from
OUT OF STOCK

This chassis is not as nice as the above, but if you fancy it, it comes with two servo-style DC motors and can use the DC motor control on the Crickit as well

Mini Robot Rover Chassis Kit - 2WD with DC Motors

PRODUCT ID: 2939
Unleash your inner Mad Max and make your vehicle dreams a reality with the Mini Robot Rover...
OUT OF STOCK

Recommended Servos

You're in luck, you can use just about any kind of servo!

Note that many of the photos below don't show the additional motor horns, but every servo comes with plastic clip-on parts!

Servo Extensions

People often ask us what they can do if the wire to their Servo is to short for their project. Not a problem! These cables act as extension cords - now you've got plenty of room.

Servo Extension Cable - 30cm / 12" long -

PRODUCT ID: 972
Stretch out your servo connections with this flexible servo extension cord. It has a 3 pin shrouded "male" connection to plug your servo into and then, 30cm later, a 3 pin...
$1.95
IN STOCK

Servo Extension Cable - 50cm / 19.5" long

PRODUCT ID: 973
Stretch out your servo connections with this flexible servo extension cord. It has a 3 pin shrouded "male" connection to plug your servo into and then, 50cm later, a 3 pin...
OUT OF STOCK

Popular plastic-gear servos

The most popular/common servos have plastic gears, they're plenty strong and not too expensive!

These can go back and forth, rotating about 180 degrees

They come in 'standard' size:

Standard servo - TowerPro SG-5010

PRODUCT ID: 155
This high-torque standard servo can rotate approximately 180 degrees (90 in each direction). You can use any servo code, hardware or library to control these servos. Good for beginners...
$12.00
IN STOCK

And 'micro' size, not as strong but much more compact

Micro servo

PRODUCT ID: 169
Tiny little servo can rotate approximately 180 degrees (90 in each direction), and works just like the standard kinds you're used to but smaller. You can use any servo...
$5.95
IN STOCK

Continuous Rotation Servos

These servos look a lot like the above but they rotate all the way around. Unlike standard servos you can't control the location of the horn, just the speed and direction it which it turns. Good as an alternative to DC motors for wheeled bots. For that reason, they tend to get purchased with matching wheels!

Continuous Rotation Servo

PRODUCT ID: 154
This servo rotates fully forward or backwards instead of moving to a position. You can use any servo code, hardware or library to control these servos. Good for making simple moving...
$11.95
IN STOCK

Continuous Rotation Servo Wheel

PRODUCT ID: 167
Plastic wheel with a cutout specially designed to allow attachment to our larger continuous rotation servo. Makes it easy to get your...
$2.95
IN STOCK

Continuous Rotation Micro Servo

PRODUCT ID: 2442
Need to make a tiny robot? This little micro servo rotates 360 degrees fully forward or backwards, instead of moving to a single position. You can use any servo code, hardware...
$7.50
IN STOCK

Wheel for Micro Continuous Rotation FS90R Servo

PRODUCT ID: 2744
We're keepin' it wheel with this one!Need a great drive solution for your little robotic friends? This black plastic Micro Continuos...
$2.50
IN STOCK

High Torque Servos

If you need more power, metal-gear servos can give you better torque, but at additional cost (since the gears have to be machined)

These are not continuous rotation

Standard Size - High Torque - Metal Gear Servo

PRODUCT ID: 1142
This high-torque standard servo now comes in a metal-gear flavor, for extra-high torque (10 kg*cm!) and reliability! It can rotate at least 120 degrees (60 in each direction) with a...
$19.95
IN STOCK

Micro Servo - High Powered, High Torque Metal Gear

PRODUCT ID: 2307
Add even more power to your robot with this metal-geared servo. The tiny little servo can rotate approximately 180 degrees (~90 in each direction), and works just like the...
OUT OF STOCK

Micro Servo - MG90D High Torque Metal Gear

PRODUCT ID: 1143
Add more power to your robot with this metal-geared MG90D servo. The tiny little servo can rotate approximately 90 degrees (45 in each direction), and works just like the standard...
OUT OF STOCK

Recommended Speakers

The Class-D amplifier on the Crickit is pretty powerful, so you can make quite a bit of noise!

4Ω Speakers

You'll get a lot louder audio from 4Ω speakers.

We recommend this speaker, you'll  have to either poke wires into the connector, or cut it off and strip the wires to connect to the terminal block, but its nice and durable

Mono Enclosed Speaker - 3W 4 Ohm

PRODUCT ID: 3351
Listen up! This 2.8" x 1.2" speaker is a great addition to any audio project where you need 4 ohm impedance and 3W or less of power. We particularly like...
OUT OF STOCK

This speaker is less expensive but you'll need to solder wires to the back

Speaker - 3" Diameter - 4 Ohm 3 Watt

PRODUCT ID: 1314
Listen up! This 3" diameter speaker cone is the perfect addition to any audio project where you need an 4 ohm impedance and 3W or less of power. We particularly like this cone as...
$1.95
IN STOCK

8Ω Speakers

8 ohm speakers won't be as loud, but that's OK!

This speaker is inexpensive, but you'll need to solder wires to the back

Speaker - 3" Diameter - 8 Ohm 1 Watt

PRODUCT ID: 1313
Listen up! This 3" diameter speaker cone is the perfect addition to any audio project where you need an 8 ohm impedance and 1W or less of power. We particularly like this cone as...
$1.95
IN STOCK

The speakers below work just fine, but because the audio amp is pretty strong so you have to make sure not to damage the speakers by turning up the potentiometer on the Crickit to make the audio really loud.

If you're getting buzzy sounds from them, turn that little trimmer potentiometer down.

Mini Metal Speaker w/ Wires - 8 ohm 0.5W

PRODUCT ID: 1890
Listen up! This tiny 1" diameter speaker cone is the perfect addition to any small audio project where you need an 8 Ω impedance and will be using 0.5W or less of power. We...
$1.95
IN STOCK

Thin Plastic Speaker w/Wires - 8 ohm 0.25W

PRODUCT ID: 1891
Listen up! This 1.5" diameter speaker cone is the perfect addition to any audio project where you need an 8Ω impedance and are using 0.25W of power. The speakers are rated...
$1.75
IN STOCK

Wall or Bone Transducers

You can also use surface transducers if you like; attach/bolt/clamp the transducer to a surface:

Medium Surface Transducer with Wires - 4 Ohm 3 Watt

PRODUCT ID: 1785
Turn any surface/wall/table etc into a speaker with a surface transducer. This type of speaker does not have a moving cone like most speakers you've seen. Instead, a small metal...
OUT OF STOCK

Bone Conductor Transducer with Wires - 8 Ohm 1 Watt

PRODUCT ID: 1674
Drown out the voices in your head with a bone conduction transducer! This incredible speaker does not have a moving cone like most speakers you've seen, instead, a small metal rod...
$8.95
IN STOCK

Recommended Drives

Solenoids

Since the Crickit can only drive 5V power, you'll need to stick to this small 5V solenoid

Mini Push-Pull Solenoid - 5V

PRODUCT ID: 2776
Solenoids are basically electromagnets: they are made of a coil of copper wire with an armature (a slug of metal) in the middle. When the coil is energized, the slug is pulled into the...
OUT OF STOCK

Vibration Motors

You'll need to extend these wires but they'll work great at 5V and buzz very strongly

Vibrating Mini Motor Disc

PRODUCT ID: 1201
*BZZZZZZZZZZ* Feel that? That's your little buzzing motor, and for any haptic feedback project you'll want to pick up a few of them. These vibe motors are tiny discs,...
OUT OF STOCK

Recommended Capacitive Touch

The capacitive touch pads on the Crickit have large holes so its easy to connect alligator/croc clips. That's how we recommend you attach to them. The "small" size clips work best:

Small Alligator Clip Test Lead (set of 12)

PRODUCT ID: 1008
Connect this to that without soldering using these handy mini alligator clip test leads. 15" cables with alligator clip on each end, color coded. You get 12 pieces in 6 colors....
$3.95
IN STOCK

Small Alligator Clip to Male Jumper Wire Bundle - 6 Pieces

PRODUCT ID: 3448
When working with unusual non-header-friendly surfaces, these handy cables will be your best friends! No longer will you have long, cumbersome strands of alligator clips. These...
$3.95
IN STOCK

You can also use copper foil tape. Note that if you get foil with conductive adhesive, you can tape the foil right onto the Crickit pads. Otherwise you'll need to use alligator clips to grab onto the copper.

Copper Foil Tape with Conductive Adhesive - 6mm x 15 meter roll

PRODUCT ID: 1128
Copper tape can be an interesting addition to your toolbox. The tape itself is made of thin pure copper so its extremely flexible and can take on nearly any shape. You can easily...
OUT OF STOCK

Copper Foil Tape with Conductive Adhesive - 25mm x 15 meter roll

PRODUCT ID: 1127
Copper tape can be an interesting addition to your toolbox. The tape itself is made of thin pure copper so its extremely flexible and can take on nearly any shape. You can easily...
$19.95
IN STOCK

You can use other conductive materials like paints! Either drip the paint into the pad itself and let it harden, or use alligator clips to connect from one pad to a paper with conductive paint on it.

Bare Conductive Paint Pen - 10mL

PRODUCT ID: 1306
Bare Conductive Paint is a multipurpose electrically conductive material perfect for all of your DIY projects! Bare Paint is water based, nontoxic and dries at room temperature.
$12.50
IN STOCK

Bare Conductive Paint - 50mL

PRODUCT ID: 1305
Bare Conductive Paint is a multipurpose electrically conductive material perfect for all of your DIY projects! Bare Paint is water based, nontoxic and dries at room temperature.
$34.95
IN STOCK

Remember: If you absolutely need more capacitive touch pins, Signal #1, #2, #3, #4 are four more capacitive touch inputs.

Hacks & Upgrades

Speeding up many requests from Raspberry Pi to CRICKIT

If your project is making a large number of requests from your Raspberry Pi to CRICKIT, the speed of the I2C connection between boards may be an issue. Fortunately this can be changed.

For the best performance, you'll want to consider tweaking the I2C core to run at 1MHz. By default it may be 100KHz or 400KHz

To do this edit the config with sudo nano /boot/config.txt

and add to the end of the file

dtparam=i2c_baudrate=1000000

Brown Outs?

The power supply on the Crickit will let you draw 4 Amps at once, which is a lot. But perhaps you are turning on all the motors at once, causing the power supply to flicker? An extra large capacitor on the 5V and GND pads may help smooth out that power draw!

Use a large electrolytic capacitor, rated for 10V or higher. Even though the power supply is 5V, you may think you can use a 6.3V capacitor, but you want at least 2x the voltage rating if possible so stick to 10V!

4700uF 10v Electrolytic Capacitor

PRODUCT ID: 1589
This Big Freaking Capacitor is just the trick when you have a lot of current sloshing around your project. They'll help smooth out voltage spikes by providing a little buffering....
$1.95
IN STOCK

Connect the capacitor using the NeoPixel terminal blocks. The 5V and GND lines are shared across the board so even if its a DC motor or servo causing the issues, this will help! It's just the most convenient place to attach a large capacitor because the two terminal blocks are nicely spaced.

Connect the capacitor using the NeoPixel terminal blocks. The 5V and GND lines are shared across the board so even if its a DC motor or servo causing the issues, this will help!

 

Connect the Positive (longer leg) to 5V and the Negative (shorter leg) to GND

F.A.Q.

Why did you misspell "Cricket"?

We wanted a unique name, inspired by the original Cricket robotics platform from MIT (which then became the PicoCricket), but not with the exact same name!

My code gives the following error in the REPL/Serial window:

The code from adafruit_crickit import crickit always throws

Traceback (most recent call last):
File "code.py", line 1, in
File "adafruit_crickit.py", line 66, in
MemoryError: memory allocation failed, allocating 152 bytes

CircuitPython will pull in libraries from /lib on the device before looking for any "baked in" ("Frozen" libraries) in the main CircuitPython code. If you are using, for example, the Circuit Playground Express + Crickit build of CircuitPython and you also have the adafruit_crickit and/or adafruit_seesaw libraries in /lib, CircuitPython will load the /lib version and still have the frozen version in memory. Your program will quickly run out of memory on the Circuit Playground Express.

The fix is fairly easy. Only put the libraries you need in the /lib folder of your CIRCUITPY drive. For Crickit, use the special Crickit builds of CircuitPython and be sure that the libraries adafruit_crickit and adafruit_seesaw are not in your /lib folder. You still have that functionality, but they are already loaded due to the special build.

Troubleshooting Crickit

Your Crickit is well tested but there's things that can trip you up! Here's a few common issues we see

My Crickit Is Doing Something Wrong

We do have bugs once in a while, so please always try updating to the latest Crickit seesaw firmware - then see if the bug persists

My Crickit Motors Aren't Moving!

My Crickit Keeps Resetting, It Works For a Bit... Then Fails!

Check the power supply. There's a few ways to know that power is good:

  1. Check the "Happy Face" green LED below the power switch, it should stay lit!
  2. Check the "Warning Symbol" red LED below the power switch, it should be off

If you have updated the Crickit seesaw firmware (see above) we have added NeoPixel feedback, the LED will be green when power is good and blink red when power is bad!

HELP! My Crickit isn't working in MakeCode, and in Python I see a message "No I2C Device at Address: 49"

A super common issue we see is people using the Crickit with Circuit Playground Express (CPX) and the bolts/screws have come loose! Those bolts aren't just mechanical, they pass signals back and forth between the CPX and the Crickit!

If you're having issue, first thing to check is that those screws are tightly attached!

Another common issue we see is not having good power to the Crickit. Check that you have fresh batteries or a good 5V power supply. Also check the Crickit is on! There's an on/off switch next to the power jack

Python: No Pullups found on SDL and SCL

This most often indicated the Crickit is not powered.

If you're running Crickit on battery power, you need fresh batteries.

If you use the wall power brick to provide power, ensure it is plugged in and the power switch is on.

If batteries aren't an issue, try clicking reset on the Crickit board to kick it back into running

micro:bit Crickit does not work

Be sure the micro:bit LED matrix faces towards the Crickit Seesaw chip and USB firmware update plug and the micro:bit reset button faces the Crickit black power jack. If you plug the micro:bit in backwards, it won't control things properly. Unplug the micro:bit, make sure the 5x5 grid of LEDs faces the Crickit printing that says "micro:bit LED grid faces this way" and you should be set.

Downloads

This guide was first published on Dec 14, 2018. It was last updated on Dec 14, 2018.