There are 4 main things we need to install to the proto-shield
WARNING: There will need to be a little voiding of the warranty to fit all of the electronics together. Depending on the exact shield/layout you use, you may/will need to remove the ICSP pins of your Arduino Uno! In this tutorial/configuration, we will need to do this!
- RGB Led
- Piezo buzzer
- EZ-Link
- LiPo charging circuit (with power switch pins)
WARNING: There will need to be a little voiding of the warranty to fit all of the electronics together. Depending on the exact shield/layout you use, you may/will need to remove the ICSP pins of your Arduino Uno! In this tutorial/configuration, we will need to do this!
Wiring:
The LEDs pins will be connected to the PWM pins 9 (RED), 10 (GREEN), 11 (BLUE). The LED used is common anode, and the corresponding Arduino code accounts for this. If you use a different style RGB LED, be sure to update the Arduino code accordingly!
The piezo buzzer will be connected to PWM pin 3.
The EZ-Link gets connected as in the EZ-Link guide, which can be found at https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-bluefruit-ez-link
This project is intended to be battery powered. The EZ-Link is powered by a battery that is attached to the charging circuit; the EZLink then provides regulated power to Arduino. There will also be an On/Off switch between EZ-Link and Charging circuit to cut the power when you are not using your 8BitBox.
Installing the pieces:
The LED should be installed in the middle of the shield, and left as high, so it can shine light over the most area possible. The lower it is installed, then the more light the shield itself will block.
We hook up the common anode to the +5V rail, and break out the R/G/B pins. We will install 220 Ohm resistors in a later step, once we get the bulky components in place.
We hook up the common anode to the +5V rail, and break out the R/G/B pins. We will install 220 Ohm resistors in a later step, once we get the bulky components in place.
We will be hooking up the piezo buzzer to PWM pin 3, so we position it close to that end of the board, placing a pin into the ground rail. (It is only shown so high in the picture to illustrate where the pins are being placed).
We connect our 220 Ohm resistors from PWM pins 9/10/11 to the R/G/B leads of the RGB LED.
We jumper a wire from the PWM pin 3 to the piezo buzzer.
We install a header to attach the EZ-Link to our board, so we don't have to solder it directly to the shield. We hook up the pins exactly exactly as described in
https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-bluefruit-ez-link
NOTE: The Bluetooth Module of the EZ-Link will be facing outwards! That is to say that the pin closest to the Digital IO breakouts is the GROUND pin, and the pin closest to the Analog IN / Power breakouts is the RESET pin. This is mainly done to have the LEDs of the EZ-Link facing outwards, as they are fairly bright!
We jumper a wire from the PWM pin 3 to the piezo buzzer.
We install a header to attach the EZ-Link to our board, so we don't have to solder it directly to the shield. We hook up the pins exactly exactly as described in
https://learn.adafruit.com/introducing-bluefruit-ez-link
NOTE: The Bluetooth Module of the EZ-Link will be facing outwards! That is to say that the pin closest to the Digital IO breakouts is the GROUND pin, and the pin closest to the Analog IN / Power breakouts is the RESET pin. This is mainly done to have the LEDs of the EZ-Link facing outwards, as they are fairly bright!
We also install a jumper pin (near the piezo buzzer, as shown) to easily attach our On/Off switch to.
We will velcro the charging circuit to the bottom of the shield. This will save us some space, but we here we will need to clip the ICSP pins to have everything fit!
If you do not wish to remove your Arduino's ICSP pins, then you can have this attached with some length of wire, and perhaps velcro it to the project enclosure instead.
If you do not wish to remove your Arduino's ICSP pins, then you can have this attached with some length of wire, and perhaps velcro it to the project enclosure instead.
Again, we are using the EZ-Link to provide power to everything, so the On/Off power is connected to the power of the EZ-Link! We will attach this via the battery connector on the back of the EZ-Link.
The battery gets connected to charging circuit.
We attach a "battery connector" wire to our shield (shown in the next picture), to connect directly to the EZ-Link.
We attach the wires from the "Load" breakout on the charging circuit to our header breakout for the power switch: The - wire goes directly the the ground wire for the EZ-Link and the + goes to the On/Off switch pins.
The battery gets connected to charging circuit.
We attach a "battery connector" wire to our shield (shown in the next picture), to connect directly to the EZ-Link.
We attach the wires from the "Load" breakout on the charging circuit to our header breakout for the power switch: The - wire goes directly the the ground wire for the EZ-Link and the + goes to the On/Off switch pins.
Now that all of the parts have been assembled, velcro them together into their new package form factor, hook up the switch and and test it out to make sure everything is getting power.
