Measure and Cut Wires
First we'll need to prepare the wires needed to connect the display to the PowerBoost. The PowerBoost will also need wires for the slide switch to turn the circuit on and off. We used 26 gauge silicone wires for the connections.
The + and - pins that connect to the display will need to be 240mm long.
The Enable and Ground pin will need to be 270mm long to reach the slide switch.
We can use a third helping hand to secure the PowerBoost while we tin and solder the wires to the pins.
Solder the + and - wire so they are pointing away from board as shown in the picture.
Solder the GND and EN pins with the wires angled straight up as shown in the picture.
Solder the GND and EN wires to each of the two pins on the slide switch. We like to use heat shrink tube to insulate the connects. We can also trim off the unused pin. Just make sure not to cut the pin in the middle!
Now we can solder the + and - wires to the display. The + wire will connect to the 5v+ pad and the - wire will connect to the GND pad on display backpack.
Angle the wire so they are positioned to the center of the display as shown in the picture.
Plug in HDMI Connector
We can now plug in the HDMI connector into the display before we mount the screen into the case. We used the 90 Degree Up Angled HDMI Type A Male so the ribbon cable can plug in from the top.
With the display soldered to each connection we can go ahead and insert it into the 3d printed case. Insert the display at an angle as shown in the gif.
Once inside we can look at the tabs on the display backpack and then slide it over slightly to align it to the standoffs on the case.
Arrange the wires on the slide switch and insert the switch into the port cutout on the middle portion of the case. Insert the switch at an angle as shown in the gif.
Mounting the PowerBoost
Now we can position the lid above the case as shown in the picture. We'll need to use four M2.5 x 5mm screws to secure the PowerBoost to the standoffs on the lid. Position the USB port on the PowerBoost so it faces away from the case.
Mounting the display
To secure the display to the standoffs inside the case, we'll need four M3 x 6mm screws.
Position the display so the HDMI connector is on the same side of the port opening on the case. Now we can fasten the four screws to secure the display in place.
Mounting the battery
We can use gaffers tape to attach the lipo battery to the lid. Take note of were the mounting holes are located and position the battery in the middle of the four mounting holes.
Use a strip of gaffers tape and adhere it to the middle part of the battery and then tuck in both sides while attaching it to the lid part like shown in the picture.
Closing the lid
Arrange the wires away from the sides of the case so we can safely snap fit the lid on top.
Before we completely snap the lid to the case, we'll need to slip the HDMI ribbon cable through the slit on the lid. Pull the ribbon cable through the slit as shown in the gif.
Now we can connect the second HDMI connector to the ribbon cable. We used another 90 Degree Up Angled HDMI Type A Male connector. Lift the latch and then insert the ribbon cable to attach.
The mini pc is held in place with two brackets that are secured onto the lid. We can use four M2 x 4mm screws to attach the brackets to the lid. First, fasten the screws to the lid to create threads for the screws. Now we can fasten the screws to the brackets and align them to the mounting holes on lid to attach the brackets.
Now we can slide in the mini pc. It should be a tight hold, but If the tolerances are too tight we can place the pc over the lid and then attach the brackets to the lid.
And now we can easily pair the pc with any keyboard. We used the orange keyboard included with the Kano kit, but any wireless keyboard will work.
We can easily update the design to include a Raspberry Pi by adding standoffs to the lid part in the Fusion360 file or just drill them right on the lid.