Download and 3D Print

You can 3D print the parts using PLA for the case and lid on desktop FDM style 3D printers. The parts can be downloaded using the link below. If you don’t have a 3D printer, the files are free to download so you can send them to a 3D printing service.

The parts were 3D printed using the Type A Machines Series 1 Pro.

Edit Design

The design is modeled in Autodesk Fusion 360 and available to edit. We can modify the sketches or adjust features in the parametric timeline.

3D Printed Parts

The case is held together using snap fit nubs on the inside of case and lid. 

We'll use screws to mount the display to standoffs inside the case with four M3x6mm machine screws.

The PowerBoost is secured on the lid with four M2.5x5mm screws.

Brackets are held in place to the back of the lid with four M2x4mm screws.


Slice Settings

Depending on your 3D printer, you may need to adjust the slice settings. We printed all of the parts on a Type A Machines Series Pro 1. These parts were sliced with Simplify3D.

  • Nozzle: 0.34mm
  • Extrusion Multiplier: 1.0
  • Extrusion Width: 0.44mm
  • Layer Height: 0.2mm
  • Infill: 10%
  • Nozzle Temperature: 230c
  • Heated Glass Bed: 40c
  • Print Speed: 80mm/s
  • Vertical Lift / Retraction: 2mm

Perfect First Layer

Heat the bed to around 40c (optional) and make sure that it’s absolutely leveled across the entire bed in order to properly 3D print these large parts. It’s really important to have a perfect first layer, so make sure the bed is cleaned to ensure the filament adheres the to the bed. 

While leveling the bed we need to find the sweet spot so that the first layer isn’t not too squished or too loose. If the bed's too close to the nozzle, the material may buckle. If it’s too high the bottom, we won’t have an even surface.



The parts were tested with common printing settings (listed above). Theres only a few areas where tolerances really matters - the snap fit nubs and the mounting holes.

Test fit the parts by attaching lid to the enclosure. Also check to see if the cutouts fit over the USB ports.


Bed Leveling

Any parts with large surface require a well leveled build plate. If you're using a heated bed, you can minimize warping. Blue masking tape, build tak, and sticky adhesives can help keep your part flat and adhere to the bed.


Clean up

If there's any string or artifacts left over from retraction and oozing, clean up the part by trimming them off using a pair of flush diagonal cutters.

This guide was first published on May 24, 2017. It was last updated on May 24, 2017.

This page (3D Printing) was last updated on May 21, 2017.

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