BambooFill prints with your standard PLA settings. Heated bed is not required. For a good adhesion to the platform, we recommend blue painter's tape.
- extruder temperature: 190 - 230°C
- platform temperature: 0 - 50°C
- shells: 2 - 4
- resolution: .1mm
- infill: 10%-50%
Direct drive and bowden extruders systems are compaitable with bambooFill. Colorfabb warns against using any hot-ends which use a teflon isolator coupler, as the filament has been shown to clog these devices.
You can change the color of the filament by switching between higher and lower temperatures. Use 190c for lighter colors and 230c for darker colors. You can even create bands of varying colors.
Before printing multiple parts you’ll want to check that the drive gear isn’t clogged with saw dust. Use a metal poker and vacuum to clean each gear tooth. Hit it with a metal brush to make sure all of the teeth are cleaned off.
Clean up is very simple. Leftover bits from retraction are easy to pull off with your hands. They shouldn’t be sharp, just be carful not to get any splinters!
Use flush diagonal cutters and a hobby knife to remove the excess material left behind during printing. You can use your fingers to rub away the loose bits.
Use a flat putty like an iFixit jimmy to get in between crevices and remove tiny artifacts.
BambooFill is real wood, so we can use wood stains to finish off the parts!
Any wood stain should work, but the MinWax brand worked for our tests. You can find these at your local hardware shop.
You can stain with different colors or even layer them on top to create a multilayer stain.
We’ll start off by sanding all of the parts down with a 320 grit sand paper. Make sure to get into all of the small spaces.
You’ll notice that sanding brings out the chalky white characteristics of the PLA, but it darkens up once we apply the stain.
We’ll start off with a dark walnut for the first layer. Stir and use a cloth to apply a textured stroke to add those wood grain patterns. Don’t apply a lot of pressure, just gently glide the cloth across parts. Fold the cloth into a small shape that can fit around smaller pieces.
Let it dry for about 5 minutes and then use an 80 grit sand paper to remove any blotches. This also helps to get that weathered look. After applying a second coat of a red oak color, we’ll sand it down again and then apply a small amount of green. Once applied, quickly wipe it off. This will give it just a hint of green in the wood. To finish off, switch back to the 320 grit sand paper.
Just like real wood, you can you fillers to plug in gaps. Wood putty worked great for filling in the top part of the blade tip. Apply after staining, let it dry and then sand off any left overs.
You can really see a difference when compared to an unfinished part. Definitely worth the effort to post process wooden prints.
This guide was first published on Apr 28, 2015. It was last updated on Apr 28, 2015.