Position the working circuit onto the bottom cover. It's the one with the smaller hole cut out and the extruded pipe we made in 123D Design. Since the design is symmetrical, the covers will snap right onto the frame. The parts should be positioned close to the ends like shown in the photo above. The NeoPixel Ring should snuggly rest on top of the extruded pipe. Add pieces of foam tape to the bottom of the components to secure them in place. Don't ever let the components or wires touch!
Slide the hand held microphone from the bottom into the bottom cover. If you have a wired mic, string it down through the hole. The tolerance should be tight enough to hold the bottom flag piece in place. Take caution not to snag or damage any of the wiring from the circuit, be careful doing this!
Position the frame over the mic and align the slide switch up to the opening on the frame. The frame should tightly snap onto the bottom cover, securing it into place. If your microphone has a removable pop filter, now is a good time to remove it (most of them unscrew).
Use your index finger or tweezers to lightly push the slide switch through the cutout of the frame. The switch should have a nice fit but you'll want to use an adhesive to secure the slide switch into the frame. Be very careful not to let the pins of the switch touch the NeoPixel ring PCB!
Position the top cover over the mic and push it through the top of the mic. Gently snap the top cover piece into the frame. Now you can twist on the microphone filter until it securely holds the top piece in place.
To personalize your 3D Printed mic flag, you can add a logo or text to one or all sides of the frame. The name or logo can be 3D printed or crafted with fabric or other neat materials! Remember, you can achieve a better sound reactive response by adjusting the mic amp gain until it only picks up audio that is the closest to it.
This guide was first published on Dec 20, 2013. It was last updated on Dec 20, 2013.
This page (Assembly) was last updated on May 17, 2020.