After the parts have been 3D printed, we'll need to join them together using wooden craft sticks and apply glue to permanently bond the parts together.
In this project, we're using wooden craft sticks with the following measurement
- 5-3/4 Inch x1/4 Inch x3/32 Inch
To measure them to the appropriate lengths, let's start by insert them into each pocket. The depth of the pocket can be used to measure the length - Use a pen to mark on the stick. Double the length of one depth to get the necessary length of the stick. Cut the wooden stick using scissors or wire cutters. You'll need to do this several times, for each group of pockets.
Now that the craft sticks are measured and cut to length, do a dry run test fitting and see if the you can join the parts togeher. If there's a gap between the parts, try to trim the craft sticks shorter, or widen the pockets with a filing tool or craft knife.
Now that we have the sticks measured and cut to the appropriate lengths, let's glue to the parts togeher.
We recommend using silicone-based adhesives, such as E6000. Remove the sticks from the pockets and apply a small amount of E6000 into each slot. Then, insert the sticks back into the pockets.
Add another small amount of glue to the craft sticks and then join the parts together. E6000 has about 4 minutes of tack time, thats how much time you have to join the parts before it becomes tacky.
Slow stack the parts on top of each other. If any excess glue appears, wipe it away any with a paper napkin. You need to let the glue set for a few hours before proceeding with the rest of the build.
You may need to join the seam together to close any gaps in the top front of the helmet. We recommend using super glue to bond these seams together.
Apply a small amount of super glue near the top part of the ears. The corner of the outter visor may also has gaps. You may need to apply pressure and hold the parts closed together while the super glue sets in. Ensure the parts are aligned properly.
Once the top of the corners are dry, we can join the bottom part of the helmet together. Use the same super gluing technique to join these seams together.
The visor is built using a pre tinted acrylic sheet. Leave the protective film on the acrylic sheet until the very end of the build. 3D print the visor template. We'll use this as a reference.
Lay the 3D printed visor template flat on a lower corner of the acrylic sheet. Mark an outline of the visor template using a pen.
Next we need to score out the outline of the template. You’ll need a straight edge and scoring tool. Trace the outline several times with the scoring tool, using the straight edge to keep the lines nice and straight. Flip over the acrylic sheet and repeat scoring on the backside. Keep scoring until you feel the cuts are deep enough.
Move the acrylic sheet near the edge of the table. Using your hand, apply a bit of pressure to the traced out part and snap the piece off the sheet. If it doesn’t snap off with a bit of pressure, continue scoring the outline.
Now we need to bend the acrylic piece. To do this, we’ll use a heat gun. A PanaVise or vice tool can help hold the heat gun upright while we apply heat to the acrylic.
Using both hands, hold it over the airflow. We recommend wearing heat resistant gloves to avoid any potential burns. Move the acrylic from side to side. You’ll feel the acrylic become soft. Lightly bend the part to create a curvature. Use the helmet to reference the curvature.
Once you’ve bent the acrylic piece, try fitting the part inside the helmet to do test fit. If its curvature doesn’t match the helmet, reapply heat and bend it until they match.